SICHUAN

NGABA

昨天在若尔盖连短信都发不到,周围都是武警,还带了头盔和防弹衣

Yesterday in Zoige I couldn’t even send text messages, People’s Armed Police are all around me, wearing helmets and bullet-proof vests.
2011


达日住下,这里的氛围跟阿坝类似,都有些紧张,不过没阿坝那么厉害,那边沿路几处查证件,市里每不到100米就有警察执勤,还有武警防爆大队,市区及周边范围有电话信号但无手机网络信号,市区不让拍照片。街道行人及车辆很少。第一次感受如此高规格的情况

Staying in Darlag, the atmosphere is similar to Ngaba, I’m a little nervous. But it isn’t as forceful as Ngaba, on the way over there my documents were inspected several times, in the town there are police on duty every hundred meters or so, there are People’s Armed Police with explosive-broof barricades. In the town and the surrounding area you can make calls but there’s no mobile network, in the town you can’t take any pictures. There are very few pedestrians or vehicles on the road. It was the first time I’ve been in a situation with such high requirements.
2011


这就是我亲历的阿坝县城,三年多了,只有冲锋枪和防暴棍,子弟兵V啊!

This is what I witnessed in the Ngaba county town, for more than three years, there are only assault rifles and riot clubs, the people’s army!
2011
01 - Weibo appendix
02 - Weibo appendix


关于年宝,昨天更新了一半,原因是,昨夜抵达阿坝县城,这里到处是成群结队的武警,装甲车在街上巡逻,所有网络全部封闭,包括短信,上街吃饭还有警察盘问,电视节目也没几个,十点后手机信号干脆也没了,不知道是不是搞宵禁,只能洗洗睡了

Regarding Nianbao, yesterday I updated half, the reason is, last night I arrived in the Ngaba county town, here there are throngs of People’s Armed Police, armored vehicles are patrolling the streets, all internet access is blocked, including text messages, going out to eat there are still police asking questions, there isn’t much on TV, after ten o’clock there wasn’t even any cell phone service, I don’t know if there’s a curfew or not, all I can do is take a shower and go to sleep.
2011
03 - Weibo appendix


我昨晚到了阿坝,是个我喜欢的藏区地,因为那里藏文化气息浓厚,民风淳朴。可惜的他们也遭受着某种痛苦和烦恼,在当地的街上有大量的人民解放军!

Last night I arrived in Ngaba, it’s a Tibetan area I like, because the local Tibetan culture has a strong flavor, the people are simple and honest. Unfortunately they’re also subjected to some pain and sorrow, there’s a large number of People’s Armed Police on the local streets!
2011


仍旧是阿坝,这里街上随处可见武警特警防暴车,这里佛像后的山上就有哨卡,这里无法接收发送短信或上网,和外界联系的途径只有讲电话。这里有烈士陵园,红军三次经过

I’m still in Ngaba, here you can see People’s Armed Police and Special Police and Riot Police vehicles everywhere on the street, there are even checkpoints behind the Buddha statues on the hill, here you can’t receive text messages or use the internet, the only way of communicating with the outside world is by talking on the phone. There’s a martyrs cemetery here, the Red Army came through three times.
2011


从松潘出发去若尔盖不到半小时,已经被武警和警察各检查了一次了

I left Sungchu for Zoige not even half an hour ago, I’ve already been inspected by People’s Armed Police and the regular police once.
2011
04 - Weibo appendix


嘘,给你们说件事嘛,我从阿坝出来豆没得网络了,街上有黑多持枪武警,密密麻麻的排起,还不准拍照,害我一紧张厕所都没上,忍了两个小时直到现在。

Huh, I have to tell you all about this, I’ve emerged from Ngaba which didn’t have any cell network, on the streets there were so many heavily-armed People’s Armed Police, in numerous lines, you aren’t allowed to take pictures, making me so nervous I couldn’t go to the toilet, I’ve suffered for two hours now.
2011


阿坝县城,五十米左右一岗,穿着护具的武警。短信、GPRS封锁。现在到了久治,信号终于恢复了!大雪飘飘下啊!

In the Ngaba county town every fifty or so meters there’s a guard post, staffed by People’s Armed Police wearing protective gear. SMS and GPS are blocked. Now I’ve arrived in Jigdril, and cell signal is finally restored! Snow is fluttering down!
2011


阿坝信号被屏蔽 满街全副武装的WJ 盾牌加身 手持狼牙棒 机关枪 中石油 中石化修在一堆 有WJ站岗 晚上不营业 怕被抢 阿坝阿 你到底有多乱 装甲车满街跑 三步一岗五步一哨

Cell service is blocked in Ngaba, and the streets are full of heavily-armed People’s Armed Police carrying shields, clubs, and automatic weapons. PetroChina and SinoPec stations have a bunch of People’s Armed Police standing guard. Stores close in the evenings, people are afraid of being robbed, Ngaba! You’ve become so chaotic. Armored vehicles fill the streets, every three steps there’s a guard post, every five steps a sentry.
2011
05 - Weibo appendix


假期从唐克去年宝玉则的途中,路过阿坝小镇。小小的一条街,武警公安防暴警无数,全部真枪实弹,枪棍盾牌一应俱全。五十米一路障,三十米一站岗。我端起相机在车上对焦拍照,街边武警立马抬手指我对讲喊话报车牌。车速不慢,前方路障即被拦下。警察检查相机,被令删掉照片,警告说,现在是特殊时期。

On vacation I passed from Tangkor to Nyenpo Yutse, on the way I passed Ngaba town. On these small streets there are countless People’s Armed Police, Public Security, and Riot Police, all with live ammunition, guns, clubs, and shields at the ready. Every fifty meters there’s a roadblock, every thirty meters there’s a guard. I started to focus my camera in my car, but the police instantly spoke over the loudspeaker and recorded my license plate. Their car wasn’t slow, I stopped in front of the roadblocks. The police inspected my camera, and made me delete the pictures. He warned me, saying that now is a special period.
2011


阿坝县,这个06年才对港澳台和国外游人开放的小镇,隶属四川省阿坝藏族自治州,这里有格鲁派、觉囊派、宁玛派、苯教等各教派寺院40多座,街头随处可见着各式服装的喇嘛,看似宁静祥和的小镇,实则暗潮涌动,每个十字路口都驻守着实枪核弹的武警,手机信号也处于屏蔽状态,只可接打电话,不能收发短信。

Ngaba County, a little town only opened to foreigners and people from Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan in 2006, in Sichuan Province’s Ngaba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, here there are more than 40 temples associated with the Gelug school, Jonang school, Nyingma school, Bon, and others. The streets are full of lamas wearing all kinds of clothes, and it’s a seemingly quiet and peaceful town, but in reality there are strong undercurrents, at ever intersection there are indeed People’s Armed Police with guns and blast shields, phone service is blocked and you can only make and receive calls, you can’t send or receive text messages.
2011


女性童鞋就不要去阿坝了…街上算是武警站岗…听说专整女性…哎…

Single women shouldn’t go to Ngaba… the streets are guarded by People’s Armed Police, I heard they specifically target women… sigh…
2011


住马尔康县城…早上起床遇到无数多的特警和警察…全是武装好了的…用相机拍的被他们强制删除…不过手机头还有…哈哈…

I’m in Barkham county town… Woke up this morning to find countless cops and special police… All very well armed… Took a picture with my camera but they forcibly deleted it… But I’ve still got my cell phone… Haha…
2011
06 - Weibo appendix


进入阿坝藏族自治州,马尔康,查车,登记,武警站岗。背着冲锋枪

Upon entering Ngaba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Barkham, your car is searched, you must register, there are People’s Armed Police standing guard. They carry assault rifles.
2011


我开心啦,终于离开阿坝来到壤塘了,有信号了,阿坝县只能打电话不能上网发短信,街上到处是武警,我背起相机在街上走还着盘问了半天,原因回来悄悄给你们说,不然微薄要着关的个

I’m so happy, finally left Ngaba and arrived in Dzamthang, I have cell phone service again, in Ngaba county you can only call other phones, you can’t use the internet or send text messages, the streets are full of People’s Armed Police, if you take out your camera on the street they’ll interrogate you for a long time, the reason they’ll tell you is only somewhat relevant.
2011


上上周去马尔康,一早也看见有,一个武警从天窗上站起,其余的坐车箱,我赶紧拍照,结果被车内武警发现,下车来要了手机把照片删了,我以为要收缴我的手机• • • • • •

Last week I went to Barkham, early in the morning I saw a People’s Armed Policeman standing in the sunroof of his car, the rest of the car was full of boxes, I quickly tried to take a picture, the result was that the policeman noticed, he got out of the car and came over to delete the picture off of my phone, I thought he was going to confiscate the phone….
2011


进入阿坝,很多警察和武警,最近有什么事吗?

Entered Ngaba, there are so many police and People’s Armed Police, has there been an incident here recently?
2012


我在红原县
意为红军走过的草原,这里已经是藏区了,从不时看到的警用防暴壁障和紧握枪支全副武装的武警战士可以看出最近这里不是很太平,街上三三两两晃来晃去的藏民让我们有些担心安全问题,不过问过执勤的警察,说现在安全,没有问题。。

I’m in Marthang County, which refers to the prairie the Red Army crossed, this is a Tibetan area, but from the riot police barricades and People’s Armed Police patrols clenching their guns you can see it isn’t very peaceful. The number of Tibetans going back and forth on the streets made us worry about our safety, but when we asked the officer on duty they said it was safe, no problem.
2012


第三天一早从阿坝出发,先是看到县政府里面停着4辆步战车,加油的时候居然中石油加油站里面驻扎了一个班的武警,门口摆放拒马,有战士持防暴枪执勤。开到昨夜问路的拐弯点看到一个排的武警正在集结,路旁一个水泥火力点。我热。。。这地方是要有多乱,一车人后怕昨晚没出事真是。。。命大。

On the morning of the third day I departed from Ngaba, first I saw four armored vehicles parked inside the county government complex, while refueling my car I unexpectedly ran into a squad of armed police stationed in the gas station itself, in front of barricades there are soldiers holding heavy weapons. Going around a bend in the road last night to get directions I saw a platoon of People’s Armed Police gathering, a lot of firepower on the cement by the side of the road. Fuck me, this place is so chaotic, after seeing this we felt we were in danger last night, but nothing happened. Really lucky.
2012
07 - Weibo appendix


昨天入住阿坝,不知这里发生了什么事情,到处是警察和武警,晚上还看到了两辆武警的装甲车。酒店的人叮嘱我们晚上不要出去转。今早起来,却一切看来照常,道路上管制的单行也取消了。

Arrived in Ngaba yesterday, I don’t know what kind of incident happened here, there are police and People’s Armed Police all over the place, I even saw two People’s Armed Police armored vehicles last night. People at the hotel told us that we shouldn’t go out at night. Woke up today to see everything looking normal, the control points on the road seem to have ended.
2012


马尔康县还是挺繁华的。。。就是警察武警比群众还多。。。奇怪

Barkham County is bustling… but there are more police and People’s Armed Police than civilians… Strange.
2012


偶遇共军铁路上转移大量坦克和装甲车。让我回忆去年这个时候,在阿坝遇全民皆兵,让我连夜奔逃壤塘的情境。是不是又那个民族迎国庆了。(图片有点不清晰)

Accidentally ran into the Communist Army transferring a large number of tanks and armored vehicles on the railway, I remember this time last year in Ngaba I encountered a whole lot of soldiers, the situation me leave Dzamthang overnight. Is that ethnicity celebrating National Day again? (The picture is a bit blurry)
2012
08 - Weibo appendix


今天离开阿坝县城 那是个很特别的地方 一个有四十二个寺庙的城 不通3G信号的城 县委大院里有装甲车的城 满是灰尘 有些破烂的城 即使衣着陈旧藏民脸上却充满笑意祥和的城

Today I left the Ngaba county town. It’s a very peculiar place, a town with 42 temples, a town with no 3G access, a town with armored vehicles parked in the County Party Committee courtyard. Full of dust. It’s a somewhat ragged town, even though their clothing was obsolete the Tibetans had smiling faces, an auspicious town.
2012


阿坝县,全县遍布武警公安,加油站站着的都是荷枪实弹的武警战士,手机上网全部中断。和之前驴友所述一致,快速驶离。

Ngaba county, the entire county is overrun by People’s Armed Police and Public Security, the gas stations are guarded by heavily-armed troops from the People’s Armed Police, cell phone internet access is blocked. The situation is the same as what my friends told me before, I’m getting out of here quickly.
2012


到马尔康了,街上到处是武警和警察。

Arrived in Barkham, the streets are filled with People’s Armed Police and cops.
2012
09 - Weibo appendix


在阿坝渡过了终生难忘的一晚。钱包失而复得,加油站外的装甲车、端枪站岗的士兵,这里是藏族聚居地,藏民的眼神怪怪的,特别是晚上。最好不要在街上单独行动。吃碗面,天已全黑在回旅馆的路上叫不到出租车,独自走了几里路、感觉非常漫长,灯光昏暗,瑞士军刀紧紧地握在手里。

Spent an unforgettable night in Ngaba. I recovered my purse, outside the gas station there are armored vehicles, armed soldiers on sentry duty, this is a Tibetan enclave, Tibetans have a very strange look in their eyes, especially at night. It’s best not to do anything on the street by yourself. I ate a bowl of noodles, it was a black day because I was unable to get a taxi on the way back to my hotel, walked a few miles on my own, it felt endless, the lights were low, clutching a swiss army knife in my hand.
2012


阿坝,一路遇见好多喇嘛,还是很和蔼的赶脚啦。不过这里半夜和早晨都出动的是装甲车,到处都是带枪武警啊。。。现在,向着青海行进!

Ngaba, on the road I met a lot of lamas, and very amiable cart drivers. But here in the middle of the night and in the morning a lot of armored vehicles were sent out, and the place is full of gun-toting People’s Armed Police! Now, traveling on towards Qinghai!
2013
10 - Weibo appendix


2013•3•11 晴
若尔盖县城座落草原之中,全城都是二三层藏式建筑,很有特色。藏区又封网了,掩耳盗铃。夕阳下街道冷清,除了警车就是几支武警巡逻队,全副武装,还有铁钗钢圈,谁在害怕?早起吃碗抄手上路,350k到阿坝州首府马尔康。路平无车,疾行山间草原湿地中,干枯的荒草地点点黑牛白羊。

March 11th, 2013, sunny skies. Zoige county town is located in the middle of the grasslands, the entire town is 2 or 3 story buildings with Tibetan architecture, very unique. The internet has been cut off in Tibetan areas again, we’re burying our heads in the sand. As the sun sets the streets are deserted, the only people out other than police vehicles are People’s Armed Police patrol squads, heavily-armed, driving cars with steel rims, who’s afraid of this? Got up early and had a bowl of wontons on the street, 350 kilometers to the capital of Ngaba prefecture, Barkham. No other cars on the street, moving quickly through the mountains, grasslands, and wetlands, dry wastelands with black cattle and white sheep.
2013


我在微博相册中上传了一张照片:离开巴中前往成都的高速路上 碰到赶往藏区的武警部队。。。

I uploaded a picture onto Weibo: Leaving Bazhong on the way to Chengdu on the highway I ran into some People’s Armed Police units rushing towards the Tibetan areas…
2013
11 - Weibo appendix

KARDZE

道孚,广场中心一些人在跳锅庄,远远走来一群特警,手里拎着冲锋枪和防暴盾,在广场边列成两排,默默地看,看了十分钟了。。。总感觉后面会突然冲上来大屠杀的样子。。。

Tawu, in the square some people are doing a Tibetan dance, a bunch of Special Police came up to them, assault rifles and riot shields in hand, forming to rows in the square, silently watching them for about ten minutes… It looked like it could become a massacre.
2011


康定县城的巡逻武警!

People’s Armed Police on patrol in Dartsedo county town!
2011
12 - Weibo appendix


在甘孜州的石渠县的街头竟然看到一队荷枪特警,有点没搞懂。

In Kardze prefecture’s Sershul town I was surprised to see a unit of armed Special Police, it was unexpected.
2011
13 - Weibo appendix


甘孜县城各重要路口有带枪军队站岗,中国移动不能上网。要钱的人多。其它还好。

Important intersections in the Kardze county town are guarded by soldiers with guns, China Mobile can’t connect to the internet. A lot of beggers. Other than that all is well.
2011


甘孜州街头武警巡逻!藏区还是不太平呀!

Kardze prefecture streets are patrolled by People’s Armed Police! The Tibetan areas still aren’t peaceful!
2011
14 - Weibo appendix


#川藏西行#Day11,离开街头站满特警且网络及3G信号完全屏蔽的甘孜县,今天目的地是格萨尔王的故里,同时也是藏东文化中心的德格县。欲看见彩虹必先经历风雨,老娘我这就拖着鼻涕勇敢冲击川藏南线上海拔最高的地方,海拔超过5千米的雀儿山豁口。上次经过时缺氧严重,头痛外加昏昏欲不知这次怎样。

Left Kardze county, where the police are full of Special Police standing guard and the wireless and 3G networks are all completely blocked, the destination today is the hometown of King Gesar, and the eastern cultural capital of Tibet, Derge. To see a ranbow one must first go through wind and rain, and I, an old lady, bravely challeneged the highest elevations of the southern Sichaun-Tibet highway, the altitude is over 5 kilometers at the Tro-La pass. Last time I experienced extreme oxygen deprivation, headaches, and drowsiness, this time I don’t know what will happen.
2011


总结一下这两天情况,甘孜满街都是拿枪的武警,不允许拍照;马尼干戈最大的酒店住宿条件很差,晚上十点放狗,全镇漆黑,只有藏獒整夜的叫声;高原反应开始显现,头疼不断,夜不能寐;翻越川藏第一险雀儿山,很是恐怖。总之,这两天很辛苦,随后附图

To summarize the last two days, Kardze streets are full of People’s Armed Police with guns, you aren’t allowed to take any pictures; Manigango’s largest hotel is very poor, at 10 PM the dogs are let loose, and the town is totally dark, the only sound is Tibetan mastiffs barking all night. Altitude sickness is setting in, with constant headaches and sleepless nights, crossing the most dangerous mountain in the Sichuan-Tibet highway, Tro-la, was very terrifying. In short, these two days have been very hard, pictures will follow.
2011


在甘孜县时候,ZF已经掐断了网络两个月之久,到了马尼干戈,水货手机没信号,现在我在德格,恢复了网络。甘孜很安全,每个路口都有特警核枪实弹巡逻,以防大不测。另外可能是318断路的原因,从甘孜开始出现了大量骑行和搭车317的人,我们明天坐班车到江达转车到昌都,超过那些人。明天进入西藏自治区。

While I was in Kardze county, the government has already had the network cut off for two months, arrived in Manigango, my imported phone had no signal. Now I’m in Derge, the network has been restored. Kardze is very safe, every intersection has a Special Police patrol armed with live rounds, preventing any kind of incident. It’s possible that Route 318 will be blocked, many people appeared for Route 317, tomorrow we take a shuttle to Jomda and then change busses for the trip to Chamdo, too many people. Tomorrow we enter the Tibet Autonomous Region.
2011


昨天到甘孜…居然网络都被屏蔽了…出去买个水果…路边的藏民就会直接问你要钱…不给还拉你!!今早出发…马路上每50米就有三个带着枪穿着防弹背心的防爆警察!!这阵仗!!然后…来德格的路上…其他车上的司机叔叔的外套…在洗个车的瞬间…外套就被顺走了…里面有1万多块!!这些可怕的藏民!!

Got to Kardze yesterday… Found that internet access is being blocked… Went out to buy some fruit… Tibetans on the side of the road directly ask you for money… If you don’t give any they’ll even tug on you!! This morning as I left… Along the road there were three gun-toting riot police wearing bullet-proof vests every 50 meters!! Making such a fuss!! Then… On the road to Derge… My driver left his coat on another car… The moment he started washing the car… Someone walked off with the coat… He had more than 10,000 RMB inside! These awful Tibetans!
2011


昨天到达甘孜就不能上网了,14小时车程,定好的旅馆也爽约了,不过好消息是找到一家绝对当地五星的旅馆,一个人睡标间,甘孜武警特警还真是多,连续两天都只吃一顿热的,不过今天的路程就腐败多了,9点开车,3小时的车程,3顿热的,就是司机师傅藏歌的优盘不见了,听不了藏歌,马尼干戈我们快到了

Arrived yesterday in Kardze after a 14 hour drive and found that I couldn’t get online, and the hotel dropped my reservation, but the good news is that I found a local 5-star hotel, with an individual standard room, there are really a ton of People’s Armed Police and Special Police in Kardze, over the last two days I’ve only been able to eat one hot meal, but today has really softened me, at 9 o’clock I’m leaving for a three-hour drive and we’ll have three hot meals, the driver has lost his Tibetan song USB stick, so we won’t listen to Tibetan songs, now on to Manigango.
2011


康定街上的特警!正拍呢!警察大喝一声"“不许拍照”!

Special Police in the streets of Dartsedo! I started taking pictures! A policeman shouted “No pictures!”
2011
15 - Weibo appendix


甘孜。手机上不了网,没有网吧,网络全被和谐,这地方很敏感么?

Kardze. My cell phone can’t access the internet, there are no internet cafes, the network is completely censored, is this place very sensitive?
2011


我很奇怪为啥这边人都这么剽悍呢,哎,前两天在康定看到休旅车开个天窗伸出来个解放军还架个机枪,恩恩。多好的地方,从塔公到丹巴有一段青山绿水相当给力,恩恩,我是懒得拍照。

I don’t understand why people here are so warlike, ay, in Dartsedo two days ago I saw an SUV with a PLA soldier holding a machine gun protruding through the skylight, huh. Really great places, from Lhagang to Danba there was a stretch of green mountains and clear water, really awesome, huh, I didn’t bother to take a picture.
2011


2007年有道孚县“农戈山事件”,大家可以上网去查。那边的山矿藏都很丰富,当地藏民皆视之为神山;然而道孚县政府年年加大开采力度,现在地表破坏得很严重,当地藏民也情绪很大。经常发生冲突。我回来的路上在道孚县城就看到了荷枪实弹的武警出动。

In 2007 there was the “Nongge Hill incident” in Tawu county, you can look it up on the internet. That side of the mountain is rich in mineral resources, but the local Tibetans regard it as a holy mountain. The Tawu county government has increased its mining efforts every year, seriously damaging the surface of the mountain, and local Tibetans are very upset by this. There are frequent clashes. When I drove back through Tawu I saw heavily-armed People’s Armed Police deployed in the area.
2011


康定是进入藏区第一站,商业繁荣大街小巷停满旅游车,但繁荣祥和的街上有防弹装甲车巡逻。为安全我们选择政府边上的康定酒店入住!

Dartsedo is the first stop when you enter the Tibetan areas, the commercially prosperous big streets and little alleys are full of parked tourist buses, but these prosperous and peaceful streets are patrolled by bullet-proof armored vehicles. For safety we’ve chosen to stay in the Kangding Hotel, which sits next to the government offices!
2011


曾经一个人从青海到四川的藏区玩了一个月.在石渠的时候被带着冲锋枪的协警吓了一跳,后来到了县城,宾馆对面就是县人武部和武警大队,倍儿有安全感.

I’ve spent a month traveling in the Tibetan areas of Qinghai and Sichuan. I was startled to see the Police Association in Sershul carrying automatic weapons, and later when I arrived in the county town, I found that across the street from my hotel there’s a People’s Armed Forces department and a battalion of People’s Armed Police, it feels safe here.
2011


到达新都桥,塔公无劫匪,有大量武警,查车查相机还查照片

I’ve arrived in Ra-ngakhar, there weren’t any robbers in Lhagang, there were a lot of People’s Armed Police, inspecting cars, cameras, and photos.
2011


昨日,沿着鲜水河断裂由炉霍至成都,道孚县城犹如战区,武警公安沿街而立,每个口子都荷枪实弹特警!我们被告之不得留宿县城,不得在街上滞留!

Yesterday I drove along the Xianshui River fault line from Luhuo to Chengdu, Tawu county was like a war zone, People’s Armed Police and Public Security standing along the street, heavily-armed Special Police at each door! We were told you can’t stay overnight in the county town, and you can’t stay on these streets!
2011


刚进道孚时,司机下车签到处 和来时不同的是站在车前的这排武警,有2个小孩子手里持有防暴盾牌 令人不解的现象之二是 所到之处,政府的机构楼房总是和周边的民居风格两立 从我能想到的两个方面来看, 若政府与民间浑然一体 不仅利于旅游 也利于心态的改变

When I first arrived in Tawu, I had to get out of the car and register with the police, and two lines of People’s Armed Police stood in front of the car, two of the kids were holding riot shields, it’s a puzzling phenomenon wherever I go, government buildings are always built in a totally different style than nearby residential buildings, two things come to mind, if the styles were the same it would keep the government and the people closer to each other, and it would be helpful for tourism, and it also changes your outlook.
2011
16 - Weibo appendix


道孚街头的黑衣人,一队队地巡逻。下午因为在道孚周围100公里范围内活动,所以被迫于世隔绝到现在。快到丹巴了,终于可以上网了。

Men in black on the street in Tawu, teams on patrol. Because there were activities within 100 km of Tawu this afternoon, I was cut off from the world up until now. Getting to Danba soon, finally able to use the internet!
2011
17 - Weibo appendix


据了解,驻耒武警某部官兵自担负维稳任务以来,按照“扼守要点、整体联动、便于指挥、利于建设”的原则,把部队官兵部署在整个甘孜藏族自治州道孚县的各个角落,主要担负着藏区驻守镇慑、机动打击、应对恐怖、寺院监控、机动增援和协同治本的维稳任务,确保藏区社会稳定和百姓安居乐业。

I understand that here People’s Armed Police officers and soldiers are responsible for the task of maintaining stability, in accordance with the principle of “Guard key points, keep everything connected, provide direction, be conducive to development,” troops are deployed in every corner of Tawu county in Kardze prefecture, their main duties in Tibetan areas include keeping people cowed into submission, providing mobile strikes, combating terrorism, monitoring the monasteries, tactical reinforcement and working with other stability maintenance organs to cure the root problem, ensuring that Tibetan areas remain stable and protecting the livelihood of the people.
2011


我的旅程如此麻辣之小插曲﹣在康定突遇特警查房 当我们已穿睡衣躺在床上的时候酒店服务员带左一大群特警要求查看身份证 顿然房间塞满一群全副武装的特警叔叔 突遇这大阵丈 我问他们为什么要这样做 帅哥特警无奈笑笑 可能觉得我的提问很可爱

A spicy little episode from my trip- In Dartsedo some Special Police suddenly inspected my room. We were lying in bed in our pajamas when the Special Police led by a member of the hotel staff wanted to inspect our ID cards, suddenly the room filled with a bunch of heavily-armed Special Police. They caused a pretty big fuss, I asked them why they were doing this, a handsome policeman smiled helplessly, maybe they thought my question was very cute.
2011


康定的特警。怎么样!帅气

Dartsedo’s special police. Look at that! Cool.
2011
18 - Weibo appendix


到达康定,一路风景让我不停说四川是个好地方。不过听司机师傅给我们说藏民的事儿加之看到武警持枪巡逻后,我决定吃了晚饭坚决不出门了。藏民太彪憾了

Got to Dartsedo, the scenery along the way made me incessantly say that Sichuan is a good place. But after listening to the driver talk about Tibetan issues, and combined with the sight of People’s Armed Police patrolling with guns, I decided not to go out after dinner. Tibetan people are too rough!
2011


康定特警

Special police in Dartsedo.
2011
19 - Weibo appendix


甘孜州僧人闹事,形势紧张,康定满大街特警,师傅告诫不要惹藏人。

Monks in Kardze Prefecture are causing trouble, the situation is very tense, streets in Dartsedo are filled with special police, a cabbie warned us not to provoke Tibetans.
2012


一路上全是持枪的武警,到了康定两步就是一辆警车…好危险啊亲!

The road is full of People’s Armed Police with guns, arriving in Dartsedo there’s a police car every two steps… really dangerous!
2012


一路上看了好多武警,还是回家安全。再见康定、等你下次安全了、我们再回来看你 !

On the street I saw a lot of People’s Armed Police, returned home safely. Goodbye Dartsedo, stay safe until next time, we’ll return to see you again!
2012


昨天去康定的一路上都有武装检查,最后一到关卡超级帅的警察拿的还是散弹来福,当时没有多想,早上一出酒店就看见两台装甲车还有N多武警,才知道出事了,据说已经牺牲了好几名警察(车里偷拍的)

Yesterday the road I took to Dartsedo had armed inspections, at the last checkpoint there was a super handsome policeman holding a shotgun, at the time I didn’t think much about it, in the morning as I left the hotel I saw two armored vehicles and so many People’s Armed Police, only then did I realize something was wrong, it is said that several police were sacrificed (picture taken stealthily).
2012
20 - Weibo appendix


在色达淘到一件羊皮大衣,共四张羊皮做成,好重,估计有十几斤重,我是驾驭不了,照片拍摄于武警中队外,对面二十米左右是派出所,也就是初二出事地方,中队楼下老板娘说那天看见z独份子凶的很,用枪往里扫。我走在街上,广场附近很多装甲车,不过我和几个重庆朋友还是谈笑风生。

I bought a sheepskin coat in Serthar, it was made of four lamb pelts, very heavy, it weighs about ten kilograms, I can’t control it. I had my picture taken of the outside of the People’s Armed Police department, about twenty meters across from it there’s a local police station, on the second day of Chinese New Year there was an incident, the boss’s wife downstairs from the unit said that Tibetan independence activists are very fierce, and she says she saw them shooting guns into the police station. As I was walking down the street I saw a lot of armored vehicles in the square, but I was still talking and laughing with some Chongqing friends.
2012


康定情歌的康定,藏区的人文景观——僧人已经被真枪实弹的武警哥哥们抢了风头。如果不是周围是藏文,还以为自己穿越到了广场。第二张是木格措,一个很高很高的湖,湖那边是一连片的雪山。——康定印象最深的是登巴客栈,5元一天,便宜到都不好意思付钱了。谢谢海增姐和小三。

The Dartsedo of the Love Song of Kangding, the Tibetan area cultural landscape, People’s Armed Police patrols with real guns have stolen the spotlight from the monks. If it wasn’t surrounded by Tibetan words, I think I would have walked right through the square. The second picture is Muge Tso, a very high altitude lake, beside the lake is a range of snow-capped mountains. What impressed me most in Dartsedo was the Tenpa Inn, just 5 yuan a day, so cheap I was embarrassed to pay. Thank you Haizeng Jie and Xiaosan.
2012
21 - Weibo appendix


藏区又不太平了!记得去年六月去甘孜县时,隔着大巴车玻璃拍了张照片,车刚进车站,武警就上车盘问谁拍照了。看躲不过,我删了照片,个武警还把我手机照片从头看到尾。在宾馆吃完晚饭,突然听到街上有人呼嚎,开门出去一看,院子里十几个房门外都站着人,大家都默不作声。呼喊声几分钟后停歇了。。

The Tibetan areas are having trouble again! I remember going to Kardze County in June last year, I took some pictures through the window of the bus, when the bus arrived at the station People’s Armed Police came onboard to interrogate anyone who took pictures. There was no way out, so I deleted the pictures, an officer still took my camera and looked at every single picture. At the hotel after dinner, someone started crying out on the street all of the sudden, I opened the door and took a look, in the yard a dozen people were standing by their doors, everyone was silent. The screaming stopped after a few minutes.
2012


有谁能认出来这是什么车,刚刚从康定回成都的路上看到好几辆这样的车从成都方向开过来,还有十几辆运送武警的车。朋友说从雅江到理塘,网络,短信全部屏蔽。。。

Can anyone tell me what kind of car this is? Just now on the way back to Chengdu from Kangding I passed a good number of them heading out of Chengdu, and there were more than ten vehicles full of People’s Armed Police. A friend said that from Yajiang to Lithang, the internet and SMS messaging have all been disabled.
2012
22 - Weibo appendix


今天下午武警有大概4,5个团开进甘孜地区,这是出二郎山偷拍的,据说藏区那边又开始闹事了。难怪一路上游人少,老外一个都没有。

This afternoon about 4 or 5 regiments of People’s Armed Police entered the Kardze region, I took this picture stealthily as they were leaving Erlang Shan, it is said that some trouble has started in the Tibetan regions. It’s no wonder that there are so few travelers on the way, and no foreigners at all.
2012
23 - Weibo appendix


昨晚在理塘过夜,四千多米的小县加上一街的武警,彻夜难眠你。

I spent the night in Lithang last night, the 4,000 meters of streets in this small town were full of People’s Armed Police, it gives you a sleepless night.
2012
24 - Weibo appendix


中午两点半离开姑咱三点一刻到康定市区,天气晴朗风很大,市区建的挺漂亮,藏民很多,街上可以见到拿着盾牌巡逻的武警,一会准备一个人去洗车我看还是算啦吧

I left Gusan at 2:30 and arrived at Dartsedo at 3, the weather is sunny and windy, the city area is pretty, there are a lot of Tibetans, on the street you can see People’s Armed Police carrying shields, I was thinking about going out to wash my car, but forget about it!
2012


康定新城里有武警巡逻,出城处武警把守,十分安全!

There are People’s Armed Police patrolling the new town in Dartsedo today, and People’s Armed Police guards outside the city, completely safe!
2012


色达街头的装甲车。

Armored vehicle on the street in Serthar.
2012
25 - Weibo appendix


进入真正的藏区,发现手机虽有信号,但无法发短信和上网,听说是被区域限制了。所以无法更新微博,拖延至今。 进入色达、炉霍一带较为传统的藏区,沿途有警察关卡查验,在炉霍有武警在街头站岗,在色达县城还见到有装甲车巡街。

I’ve entered the real Tibetan areas, it seems my phone still has service, but I can’t send text messages or use the internet, I heard that these are special restrictions for this area. So I couldn’t send anything to Weibo, delayed until now. Entering Serthar, Drango is more of a traditional Tibetan area, along the way there are inspections at police checkpoints, in Drango there are People’s Armed Police sentries on the streets, in Serthar county town I saw armored vehicles patrolling the streets.
2012


在不断盘山公路以及各种坑爹的土路,加之看不到一个村落的时候打击下,车里的气氛很诡异,中间有一段还突然下冰雹,大家做出各种被打劫的假设,索性最后安然无恙.和饭馆老板娘聊过后得知,其实318现在已经很安全了,因为有很多武警以及特警看守着,很多是因为康定的司机为了拉客放话理塘很动乱.

On a constantly winding mountain dirt road full of potholes, couldn’t stop to see a village because it was undergoing a crackdown, the atmosphere in the car was very strange, in the middle of one stretch of road it started to hail, we all assumed some robbery could happen, finally we made it safe and sound. After that a restaurant owner told us that Route 318 is very safe now, because it’s guarded by a lot of People’s Armed Police and special police, many driver soliciting fares in Dartsedo say there’s unrest in Lithang.
2012


今天到了理塘,之前听说了关外治安乱,但是来了以后,发现这个小小的县城满大街都是手持冲锋抢的武警和警察,街上停满各种防暴车,让我想起了经常电视看到的伊拉克街头…

Today I arrived in Lithang, I had heard people saying that law and order had collapsed into chaos, but after getting here, I found that the streets of this little county town are full of People’s Armed Police holding assault rifles and regular police, there are all kinds of riot control vehicles parked on the streets, it reminds me of what you see when they show the streets of Iraq on TV.
2012
26 - Weibo appendix


金沙江是川藏的界河,以江心线为界。大桥有新旧两座,两桥相距几百米。桥上有分界标志。桥两头都有武警把守,严禁照相,西藏一侧需要检查身份证。正好遇到拉物资的军车车队,呆呆的望着车窗里笑,里面不时的伸出大拇指和加油的口号!

The border between Sichuan and the Tibet Autonomous Region is the Jinsha River, the actual boundary line is in the middle of the river. There are two bridges just a few hundred meters away from each other, one old and one new. On the bridge there are flags along the dividing line, at each end the bridges are guarded by People’s Armed Police, you aren’t allowed to take pictures of them, on the Tibet Autonomous Region side they need to check your ID card. Laughing as I look blankly out the window, giving a thumbs up and saying “Let’s go!” from time to time inside the car.
2012
27 - Weibo appendix


走北线的那队说到了色达找不到地方住,因为来了上千警察or武警,说是色达最近有宗教活动…

A group who took the northern route told me that when they arrived in Serthar they couldn’t find a place to stay, because thousands of police or People’s Armed Police have arrived, it’s said that Serthar has recently had a religious activity.
2012


我在这里: #理塘县#,今天从稻城亚丁直接赶到高城理塘住,街上很多防爆警车和装甲车,据说这边有点乱。明天走最烂的正在修路的318国道到康定。发张这昨天手机拍的雪山吧。

Rushed directly from Daocheng and Yading to the high-altitude town of Lithang, on the streets there are a lot of blast-proof police vehicles and armored vehicles, it is said that it’s kinda chaotic around here. Tomorrow I’m taking some terrible roads on highway 318 to Dartsedo. Sending a picture I took yesterday of snow-capped mountains!
2012


出巴塘没多久,来到一座桥上,桥中间矗立着三个字的牌子,”西藏界”。雄赳赳,气昂昂,跨进西藏! 前方居然有武警岗哨,象边境海关一样,每人都得接受检查。

Not long out of Bathang I came upon a bridge, on the middle of the bridge is a sign with three characters, “Boundary of the Tibet Autonomous Region.” Valiantly, full-spiritedly, I stepped into Tibet! In front there’s actually a People’s Armed Police checkpoint, it’s like a customs post at a border, every person was inspected.
2012


D10,第十天,昨晚全城手机发不了短信上不起网,整个理塘全是装甲车警车特警还有一大群一大群的喇嘛和藏人,根本不敢和他们眼神接触,几个人取钱取了一个就转身以30码速度狂奔回宿舍!装甲车车顶上武警抱着步枪。好像就差一个导火索。昨晚就商量大逃离,今早吓跑了四个。。后来者, 理塘不宜呆!

The tenth day, last night the entire town was left without cell phone internet access, all of Lithang is full of armored vehicles, police cars, Special Police, and a large crowd of lamas and Tibetans, I didn’t dare to make eye contact with them, a few people went to get cash but turned back before they made it 30 yards and sprinted back to the hotel! People’s Armed Police stand in the turrets of armored vehicles holding rifles. It’s like a powderkeg. Last night we discussed our big escape from here, today four people had already left… Latecomers, you shouldn’t stay in Lithang!
2012


理塘境内的白塔公园,虽然街上武警,公安还在巡逻,饭店老板一再嘱咐不要出来,我还是冲动的出来了。心慌慌!

White Stupa park in Lithang, although there are People’s Armed Police on the streets, Public Security are still on patrol, the restaurant owner kept asking me not to go out, but impulsively I went out anyway. Feeling nervous!
2012


色达入城口有路障,荷枪士兵严阵以待。城中心广场亦有军车戒备。但如这一带县城,望去街道楼房,但停水停电就是家常便饭。现又是加油站无油,在恐慌中淡定,就应是这种地方的生活态度。

There are barricades at the entrance to Serthar town, soldiers with guns are ready for combat. The square in the center of the town is also on military alert. But in county towns like this, I look to the buildings on the street, but water and electricity outages are commonplace. Right now the gas station has no gas, very calm and collected in this panic, that should be the approach to life in a place like this.
2012


炉霍县,戒备森严啊!各个县城出入口有武警、防爆车、拒马。刚才一个便衣开警车来梢东西,身一转,腰间一把手枪。

Entered Drango county, it’s heavily fortified! There are People’s Armed Police at each entrance to the county town, and anti-riot vehicles, and barricades. Just now a plainclothes police officer came to deliver something in a police car, as he turned, I saw a pistol strapped to his waist.
2012


下午两点,到达道孚吃午饭,前左轮漏气,还是检查站的武警发现的,慢慢挨下来的。

I arrived in Tawu at 2 PM and ate lunch, when the front left time starts leaking, or you run into a People’s Armed Police inspection station, you suffer delays.
2012


分享图片 甘孜州道孚县街头巡逻的警察,维护一方平安!县城外还驻扎了陆军两个团,打的旗号分别是大刀团、先锋团。军容整齐,威武啊!

Sharing this picture of police patrolling the streets in Tawu county, Kardze prefecture, maintaining peace! There are also two army regiments stationed outside town. There’s great strength fighting against the separatists, a vanguard group. Orderly military strength, how mighty!
2012
28 - Weibo appendix


理塘有多乱,看看武警拿的冲锋枪就知道了,藏民地盘早日离开为妙,搭了辆安监局的普拉多,再烂的路都可以无视,官车牛逼啊,开着广播让军车让道…

Lithang is so chaotic, whenever you see People’s Armed Police holding assault rifles, then Tibetans will quickly leave the area, I took a ride in a Security Supervisor Department Prado, and ignored the bad roads, official vehicles are so fucking cool, you can make military vehicles give you the right of way…
2012


雅江县城吃面,然后巴塘。县城街道上时时有武警巡逻。县委门口武警实枪核弹站岗。

Ate some noodles in Yajiang, then went on to Bathang. There are People’s Armed Police patrolling the streets of the county town from time to time. The entrance to the county government is guarded by police with heavy weapons.
2012


到石渠了,四川最西北的县城。气氛诡异:加油站被封,武警把守。到处是警车。找到了县武装部的招待所。前几天喇嘛闹事,到处砍人。前面也没地方住了。只能忐忑住下。

I’ve arrived in Sershul, the farthest northwest county town in Sichuan. The atmosphere is strange: gas stations are closed, People’s Armed Police are standing guard. There are police vehicles everywhere. I found the county People’s Armed Police guesthouse. A few days ago the lamas caused some trouble, fighting people with knives. There’s no other place to stay, I’ll just have to stay here, apprehensively.
2012
29 - Weibo appendix


吃完饭赶紧回来,外面好几个特警
四川甘孜藏族自治州乡城县

After dinner I rushed back quickly, there are a lot of Special Police outside
Sichuan province, Kardze prefecture, Chatreng County
2012


县城惊现装甲车,帅气
四川省,甘孜藏族自治州,康定县,环山南路

An armored vehicle suddenly appeared in the county town, cool
2012
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色达,宗教气氛明显浓厚了许多,但县城的广场上有不少荷枪实弹的武警站岗

In Serthar the religious atmosphere is thick and strong, but in the square in the county town there are many heavily-armed People’s Armed Police standing guard.
2012


在康定街拍偶遇到康定武装部的叁位特警,连偶素男生都为之侧目~那一个叫帅哇!!

On the streets of Dartsedo I ran into armed special police, even men in their prime look askance at them- that’s what I call handsome!
2012
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色达金马广场,昨天五明佛学院放假,街上很多喇嘛,广场周围都坐着很多五毛便衣,对面还有军车岗哨。今天,人少了,五毛也放假了。

Golden Horse square in Serthar, yesterday was a Wuming Buddhist Institute holiday, many lamas on the street, the square was surrounded by fifty cent plainclothes police, on the opposite side there were military vehicles on sentry duty. Today, less people, the fifty centers are on holiday.
2012


理塘县的路上武警巡逻,仙鹤广场聚集了很多警察……都配着大枪…防爆车警车满街都是,到处是穿着藏袍的人,警车不停的在马路上巡逻…气氛太压抑了…白色恐怖到处弥漫…难道有事要发生了……真心害怕了

There are People’s Armed Police patrolling the streets of Lithang county, there were a lot of police gathered in Xianhe Square… They were holding big guns… The streets are full of explosives-proof vehicles and police cars, there are people wearing Tibetan clothes everywhere, and there are non-stop police car patrols on the streets… Repression is in the air… There’s a pervasive feeling like the White Terror… Could something happen? I’m really terrified.
2013
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巴塘县城其实真的很稳定,真用不了这么多武警天天去巡逻……

The Bathang county town is really stable, it really doesn’t require so many People’s Armed Police out on patrol every day…
2013
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今天康定街上好多武警巡逻,还在想原来过来这边都没有这么多,突然想到今天是3.14…朋友们,都懂撒。我们这次进来公办的时间真挑的好,我吓的很!

There are a lot of People’s Armed Police patrolling the streets of Dartsedo today, I still didn’t know why there were so many, but then suddenly remembered that today is 3.14. Friends, I understand. We really picked a good time to come here, I’m really scared!
2013


康定并不是想象中的浪漫之城。而是一个交通杂乱、满街藏民、到处武警的地方。昨晚本该出去逛逛,无奈被一个疑似尾随我们的藏民给吓回酒店,可惜了我的火锅啊。再过两小时就要离开这里了,拜拜康定情歌、拜拜跑马山、拜拜美丽的木格措

Dartsedo isn’t the romantic city I imagined. Rather it’s a place cluttered with traffic, with streets full of Tibetans, People’s Armed Police everywhere. We went out last night, but got frightened and returned to the hotel after we thought some Tibetans were following us, too bad about my hotpot! We’re leaving in two hours, goodbye Love Song of Kangding, goodbye Paoma Mountain, goodbye lovely Muge Tso.
2013


TIBET AUTONOMOUS REGION

LHASA

拉萨大昭寺广场,伏在屋顶的狙击手用的是什么设备?

Jokhang square in Lhasa, what kind of device is that sniper on the rooftop using?
2009
34 - Weibo appendix


这一片蓝是拉萨纯净的天。天空下,是庄严的寺庙,虔诚的信徒,还有轰隆隆走过的装甲车,十步一岗的哨兵,穿梭的巡逻队,天台上严肃的狙击手。。。05年我来的时候,蓝天下还没有这么多东西。

This is the blue of a pure sky in Lhasa. Under the sky are stately monasteries, devout believers, there are also armored vehicles rumbling past, one soldier on sentry duty every ten steps, patrols shuttling by, humorless snipers on the rooftops… When I came in 2005 there weren’t as many of such things under the blue sky.
2011


拉萨的下午喝甜茶,晒太阳,看大昭寺,请忽略屋顶的武警狙击手。

Drinking sweet tea in Lhasa during the afternoon, basking in the sun, looking at the Jokhang, please ignore the People’s Armed Police sniper on the rooftop.
2011
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拉萨。从布达拉宫,到八廓街,每个路口都站着至少八个全副武装的武警,重点地区还有特警巡逻。八廓街上,钢盔防弹衣墨镜便携对讲机的武警,端着冲锋枪,四人一组巡逻,不知道的,还以为到了巴格达。玛吉阿米对面屋顶,还有狙击手驻防。

Lhasa. From the Potala I went to the Barkhor street, at each intersection at least 8 fully-armed People’s Armed Police stood by, key areas have additional Special Police patrols. On the streets of the Barkhor, People’s Armed Police with steel helmets, bulletproof vests, and walkie-talkies, carrying assault rifles, patrolling in teams of four, I don’t know, I still felt like I’d arrived in Baghdad. There are snipers stationed on the roof of Makye Ame.
2011
36 - Weibo appendix


在藏的很多地区都是要边防证的,没来之前我对卫藏地区的藏民多少产生点畏惧,但通过314后西藏各地区治安还好;走在八廓街的每个路口,你都会看到有配枪的武警站岗,当地的藏民虽没有康巴人的热情及安多人的朴实,但很少会对汉人怀有敌意,只是发现他们的汉语水平还不如英语来的自如些。。

Many areas in U-Tsang require permit checks, until I came to Tibet I didn’t know how much fear Tibetans generate, but after 3.14 law and order in Tibet is still good, at each intersection as you walk through the Barkhor you can see People’s Armed Police sentries with pistols, local Tibetans don’t have the passion of Khampas or the simplicity of Amdowas, but they’re rarely hostile to Han Chinese, but they’re more comfortable speaking in English than they are in Chinese.
2011


分享图片 拉萨火车站,到处都是武警,各个楼顶潜伏着狙击手。

Sharing some pictures of the Lhasa train station, People’s Armed Police are everywhere, there are snipers lurking on the rooftops.
2011
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其实这才是完整版。。。拉萨真的很安全 制高点都是狙击手!!!被我这个低级趣味的人就爱大家来找碴 都暴露了 ╮(╯▽╰)╭ 哎~ 对不起 其实我是个卧底 PIANG~ 哒哒哒 = =+

Really, this is the complete story… Lhasa is really safe, the heights are all held by snipers!!! It makes me into a person with bad taste, I love it when people start fights, and everyone is exposed. Sigh… Sorry, I’m an undercover photographer, click click click…
2011
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大昭寺门口 拉萨随处可见武警战士 十米一岗 ····

At the entrance to the Jokhang. You can see People’s Armed Police troops everywhere in Lhasa. A guard post every ten meters…
2011
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早上六点半就准备出发去纳木错了,路边的武警好多呀

At half past six in the morning I was ready to go to Lake Namtso, there are so many People’s Armed Police along the side of the road!
2011


西藏还真是戒备森严啊~~亮点在最右边的房檐上~~狙击手吗?

The Tibet Autonomous Region really is heavily guarded! Highlight the eaves on the right-most rooftop… is that a sniper?
2011
40 - Weibo appendix


拉萨当前局势稳定,但我们的政府一点也不敢放松,八廓街上还是许多荷枪实弹值勤的武警,屋顶上也有,可敬的武警战士,保我们安全安心!刚刚给他们拍照时,他们挥手表示不要拍,也许,怕我们不经意泄露军事机密吧!

The situation in Lhasa is stable at the moment, but our government doesn’t dare to relax even a little bit, on the Barkhor there are still a lot of heavily-armed People’s Armed Police on duty, they’re also on the rooftops, very honorable People’s Armed Police troops, guaranteeing our safety and security! Just now I took some pictures of them, they waved their hands away to show that they didn’t want us to photograph them, perhaps, I’m afraid that we’ve accidentally leaked military secrets!
2011


进入拉萨,突然有种错觉,像到了一个内陆城市。人们下班了,在公交站牌处等车,大多都是皮肤白白的汉人,穿着时尚。但另一个静默的景象让我意识到,这,就是拉萨了。路两旁的部队大院,不时冒出一个来。路上执勤的,全是特警,开着威武的装甲车。

Entering Lhasa I got a false impression, it resembled a mainland Chinese city. People are getting off work, waiting for the bus at bus stops, mostly pale-skinned Chinese, fashionably dressed. But there was another silent scene that made me realize that this, this is Lhasa. Emerging from military compounds along the road from time to time, on duty, are Special Police, all driving mighty armored vehicles.
2011
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趴在拉萨老城屋顶上、将枪口瞄准在大昭寺方向的的狙击手们

Lying on a rooftop in the Lhasa old town, snipers pointing their guns in the direction of the Jokhang temple.
2011
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今晚就到西宁了。拉萨很安全,大昭寺等重点区域,50m之内必有6-8人一组的武警巡逻队。便衣无数

Tonight I arrived in Xining. Lhasa is very safe, in the Jokhang and other important areas there must be a patrol of six to eight People’s Armed Police every fifty meters, and countless plainclothes police.
2012


我给你看真相。。。6年前我来大昭寺除了朝拜的人就是游客 现在两者都少了 整座城里老毛子更少了 三步一岗 荷枪实弹 这是巡逻的武警 装甲车坦克一般不敢拍照 武警对我这种游客没什么威胁 他们还会友好的打招呼 可是对他们认为面目不善的藏民就不一样了。。。

I’ll show you the truth… Six years ago when I came to the Jokhang, other than worshippers it was just tourists. Now there are few of either. There are even less foreigners. Every three steps there’s a heavily armed People’s Armed Police checkpoint, there are armored vehicles and tanks which you wouldn’t dare to photograph. The People’s Armed Police aren’t a threat to visitors like me, they still give you friendly greetings, but the poor Tibetans aren’t the same in their eyes.
2012
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八廓街。逆着朝圣的人群 卖东西几乎都四川汉族…特警和公安随处

At the Barkhor. Going against the crowd of pilgrims. The stores are almost all run by Chinese people from Sichuan… Special Police and Public Security are everywhere.
2012


走在拉萨街头,看到一队一队的武警,特警,民警,干警,刑警,全部荷枪实弹,楼顶上的狙击手,楼下的武装装甲车随处可见,感觉这地方治安真好,也有一种山雨欲来风满楼的感觉,我都不记得今天早上被检查多少次了

Walking the streets of Lhasa, seeing team after team of People’s Armed Police, Special Police, People’s Police, police, Criminal Police, all with heavy weapons, snipers on the rooftops, downstairs there are armored vehicles everywhere, the state of law and order here is really good, there’s also a feeling that there could be a storm coming, I don’t remember how many times I went through inspections this morning.
2012


满城尽是装甲车,满城尽是冲锋枪,满层尽是狙击手!敏感时期没有哪个城市像拉萨那么安全的!”身份证"这个名词出现率是最高的!

The city is full of armored vehicles, the city is full of machine guns, the roofs are full of snipers! During sensitive periods there isn’t any city as safe as Lhasa! “ID card” is the most common sentence you’ll hear!
2012


拉萨的安全工作做的确实不错 哪里都可以看到警察武警解放军 动不动就全副武装 昨天竟然在大昭寺附近的民宅楼顶看了两个来回走动的武警 是狙击手么?不过每次当你问他们路时 你会发现这些全副武装的兵们真的很淳朴 露出憨憨的笑容 认真的回答你的每个问题 比起内地的那些police们 不知强过多少倍

Lhasa really does a great job with security work. You can see police, People’s Armed Police, and People’s Liberation Army everywhere. Heavily-armed at each turn. Yesterday I even saw two People’s Armed Police pacing on the rooftops of the homes near the Jokhang, were they snipers? But every time you ask them for directions, you’ll find that these heavily-armed soldiers are really honest, exposing silly smiles as they answer your question seriously. Compared to the police in the mainland, I don’t know how many times stronger they are.
2012
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首日拉萨,像个痞子游荡在大昭寺附近,被各种武警特警公安制服人员包围,藏民脸上各种不屑辐射出政治束缚和压抑。

My first day in Lhasa, like ruffians loitering beside the Jokhang, you’re surrounded by various People’s Armed Police, Special Police, and Public Security uniformed personal. Tibetans face all kinds of disdain radiating from political shackles and repression.
2012


拉萨街头尽是武警、特警、警察、便衣。。。藏族小伙子办个护照或港澳通行证基本上不可能。。。大昭寺边上的屋顶也是隔个10来米站个武警。。。转湖回拉萨途中经历了 N回检查身份证。。。给消防车拍了个照要求删除,本想着再来个特警车照的。。。这社会怎么啦?维稳成本真是高呀

The streets of Lhasa are full of People’s Armed Police, Special Police, regular police, plainclothes cops… For young Tibetan men it’s basically impossible to get a passport or a permit to travel to Hong Kong or Macau. There are guards stationed every ten meters along the rooftops beside the Jokhang… On the way back to Lhasa from the lake my ID card was inspected multiple times… If you take a picture of a fire truck they’ll make you delete it… Think again about taking a picture of Special Police vehicle… What is wrong with this society? The cost of maintaining stability truly is high!
2012


我们住的地方很是安全,八廓街上面有不少的特警在执鄞,我们住的宾馆门口还有这个

The place where we’re staying is really safe, on the Barkhor there aren’t just a few Special Police patrolling, and this is outside the door of our hotel:
2012
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我在小昭寺 在拉萨,看的最多的是武警巡逻~还有每个路口的110~

I’m at Ramoche temple. In Lhasa, the most common sight is People’s Armed Police patrols. And every intersection has police.
2012
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紧密团结在D中央周围,思想上与D中央保持高度一致,共创和谐拉萨

Unite with the central Party, remain highly consistent with the ideology of the central Party, and create a harmonious Lhasa.
2012
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过了当雄,列车上来几位特警,开始刷身份证,开始个别询问进藏目的,态度很友好,普通话很标准,哈哈~

Passing through Damshung, several Special Police boarded the train, they’ve begun checking ID cards, asking people why they’ve come to Tibet, their attitude is very friendly, their Mandarin is very standard, haha~
2012


到达拉萨站了,出站必须出示身份证,扫描登记的,出来一路上必须一直往前走,
开心宝贝mimi的每一天:不知为何八角街的旅馆全部不许入住,应该又发生什么大事了吧,街上到处都是武警,问人也没人敢说,西藏真是奇怪,还好我的边防证拿到了,赶快走人,我们顺利到了山南

I don’t know why hotels on the Barkhor aren’t allowing people to book any rooms, there must have been another major incident, the streets are full of People’s Armed Police, the people we asked wouldn’t dare to say why, the Tibet Autonomous Region is really strange. Fortunately I got my border permit card, left quickly, we’ve successfully arrived in Lhoka.
2012
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大昭寺周边到处都是荷枪实弹,身背灭火器的武警,看来藏区的安全形势并不乐观!

The Jokhang is surrounded by heavily armed, fire-extinguisher toting People’s Armed Police, it seems that the security situation in Tibetan areas isn’t optimistic!
2012
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谁说拉萨不安全 看看全副武装的特警 武警和公安 装甲车

Who says Lhasa isn’t safe? Look at these heavily-armed Special Police, People’s Armed Police, and Public Security Bureau armored vehicles.
2012
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现在大昭寺朝拜的人好少,更多的是武警和公安。

Right now there are very few pilgrims at the Jokhang, they’re outnumbered by People’s Armed Police and Public Security.
2012


进入日多,安检口有了背枪的特警。这里的山上有虫草,有很多挖掘的藏民。

Entered Rutok, the inspection station had Special Police with guns on their backs . The mountains here have yartsa gumbu, and a lot of Tibetans digging for it.
2012


看看拉萨大昭寺的治安。满街持枪巡逻特警。而且禁止拍照,谁拍摔谁手机。

Take a look at law and order at the Jokhang in Lhasa. The streets are full of armed Special Police patrols, but you’re forbidden from taking any pictures, whoever takes a picture will have their phone crushed or thrown out.
2012
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当雄站,特警查车

Damshung station, Special Police are inspecting the train.
2012
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当雄!上来一批武警查身份证!对拉萨的安保又有新概念了吧?你们见过去北京然后到了天津就查你身份证的么?跟首都的安保根本不是一个级别!!

Damshung! I came up on a group of People’s Armed Police inspecting ID cards. This is a new concept of security in Lhasa, right? Have you ever seen someone inspect your ID card in Beijing or Tianjin? Even the capital doesn’t have this level of security!
2012


大昭寺广场,这里很安全,很和谐,有保安,有民兵,有警察,有特警,还有武警战士,甚至还有警犬。

The Jokhang square is very safe, very harmonious, it has a lot of security, it has the People’s Army, it has police, it as Special Police, and it has soldiers from the People’s Armed Police, there are even police dogs.
2012


60大庆,游客很少,八廓街上好多特警。

It’s the 60th Anniversary, there are very few tourists, on the streets of the Barkhor there are a ton of Special Police.
2012


满街防暴特警,进八廓街闲逛,还要过安检,开包,看良民证,和电视剧里演的差不多

The streets are full of Riot Control and Special Police, wandering into the Barkhor, you still have to be inspected, they’ll open any bags you have, look at your criminal history, similar to a performance you see in a drama on television.
2012
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近期我去过西藏旅游,感觉真不错,唯一遗憾,就是在大昭寺门口看到几辆特警车,感到好奇,便远远地拍了一张照片,结果一个警察走过来,让我当着他的面删除。我不解地问,警车摆在外面,照个外景有什么不可以。在广州,公安有尖端设备都向市民开放和展示,那个警察对我说,你再讲,我叫我们领导来,

I recently went traveling in Tibet, it was great, I have one regret though, in the door of the Jokhang I saw several Special Police vehicles. I became curious and took a few pictures from a distance, resulting in a policeman walking up to me and making me delete the pictures in front of him. I don’t understand why, because the police vehicles were in the open, so what’s wrong with photographing them? In Guangzhou the Public Security Bureau has state-of-the-art equipment that’s open and on display, the policeman asked what I said, I therefore call upon our leadership.
2012


坐在大昭寺广场上,看着一拔拔手执武器眼戴墨镜的武警,着制服巡逻的警察!来拉萨两天了,无论出租车司机,还是商人行人,藏民都是那样热情,本份。远区别另一个闹独立的族群!他们要的不过是一种对自己信仰,文化的尊重,而无侮辱和亵渎!或许,即使做回农奴,也与他们无关。

Sitting in the square beside the Jokhang, watching the heavily armed, sunglass-wearing People’s Armed Police, and uniformed police patrols! I’ve been in Lhasa for two days, and regardless of whether you’re talking to a cabbie or to pedestrians in a market, Tibetan people are all so welcoming, honest. Very different from other ethnic groups which are fighting for independence! What they want is their faith, respect for their culture, without insults or blasphemy! Perhaps, even if they return to serfdom, it has nothing to do with them.
2012


布达拉宫 一个不去终生后悔,去了后悔终生的地方。布达拉宫里面全是武警,没有喇嘛的。要去看磕长头的,就到大昭寺吧。

If I didn’t make it to the Potala Palace I would regret it for a lifetime, but after going I’ll also regret it for a lifetime. There are only People’s Armed Police inside the Potala, there aren’t any lamas. If you want to see prostrating worshippers, go to the Jokhang.
2012


还有大昭寺,及武警巡逻

There’s still a Jokhang, and there are still People’s Armed Police patrols.
2012
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布达拉宫的光芒藏区无其他可比。拉萨的稳定是武力之下的稳定。在布达拉宫广场,我把包放地上拍照,就一两分钟,特警就跑过来了,或许他是怕我放在地上的是炸弹吧。

Nothing in the Tibetan area can compare to the radiance of the Potala Palace. Stability in Lhasa is maintained by force. In Potala Palace Square I put my bag on the ground while I was taking pictures, within a minute or two Special Police came running over, perhaps he was afraid I had placed a bomb on the ground!
2012


拉萨站比西宁站要正式许多,唯独不解的是武警包围了整个前广场,不允许拍照留影,所有人走偏门,气氛陡然紧张,不过优美的风景马上让这些飘过,明天预约布达拉宫第一批游客成功,管理严苛,提前一天申请,每天2500人,每人限时一小时,超时一分钟,导游罚款500元,超时五分钟,吊销导游执照。

Lhasa Station is way more formal than Xining Station, I just don’t understand why the entire square in front of the station is surrounded by People’s Armed Police, you aren’t allowed to take any pictures, everyone went to the wrong door and suddenly the atmosphere was tense, but the beautiful scenery immediately dispelled these thoughts, I successfully got a reservation with the first group of tourists allowed in to the Potala Palace tomorrow morning, the management is very strict, you have to apply one day in advance, only 2,500 people are allowed in each day, and there’s a limit of one hour per person, if you go one minute over that time your tour guide will be fined 500 yuan, if you’re five minutes over their license will be revoked.
2012


只有在拉萨才能感觉到如此的紧张气氛,随处都可以看到站岗执勤的武警、协警、辅警、民兵、便衣,无论是布达拉宫还是大昭寺还是火车站,怎么感觉跟战乱年代似的。(楼顶红旗处有一名武警荷枪实弹)

Only in Lhasa can you experience such a tense atmosphere, everywhere you can see People’s Armed Police standing guard, the Police Association, Auxiliary Police, the People’s Militia, plainclothes police, whether you’re at the Potala Palace, the Jokhang, or the train station, how it feels like living through an era of war! (There’s an armed policeman on the roof next to the red flag)
2012
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在小昭寺附近偷偷照的 ,真枪实弹 .据说不让照相 大街上看到好多武警和协警 ,手痒 偷偷拍一张

Secretly took this picture at Ramoche temple, real guns with live ammunition. It’s said you aren’t allowed to photograph them. On the big streets I saw so many People’s Armed Police and Police Association members, had a strong desire to stealthily take a picture.
2012
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从109国道3857往北开1小时,到达羊八井,在海拔4100米吃午饭,遇到刚演习完毕回拉萨的大部队,遇见无数炮、坦克、装甲车

From #109 National Highway 3857 I headed north for one hour, arrived in Yangpa Chen, ate lunch 4100 meters above sea level, came across troops heading back to Lhasa after finishing troop exercises, saw uncountable numbers of cannons, tanks, and armored vehicles.
2012
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上午参观了大昭寺,赶上了当地的雪顿节,遇见了虔诚无比的信徒,广场里面全面武装:武警,特警,狙击手,警察,部队一应俱全,有战备的感觉。导游告知,穿戴不可暴露,参观时睁大眼睛,关上嘴巴!这里的生活原来是这样的?!

I visited the Jokhang this morning, just in time for the local Shoton festival, and met with some extremely devout believers. Inside the square there were a lot of weapons: People’s Armed Police, Special Police, snipers, police, troops standing at the ready, it felt like a war was about to start. Tour guides say, you can’t wear revealing clothing, keep your eyes open when your visit, but keep your mouth shut! Has life here always been like this?!
2012


明天就是雪顿节了 ,往年藏民们会早早的去色拉寺和哲蚌寺看一年一顿的展佛 下午相约在罗布林卡看藏戏过林卡。可是现在让我们在经过各种安检检查后 、在辛劳的武警 特警 警察 的守护下 过林卡会是一种什么样的心情。

The Shoton festival is tomorrow, in previous years Tibetans would get up early and go to Sera monastery and Drepung monastery to see the annual exhibition of the Buddha, and then go to the Norbu Lingka to see Tibetan Opera and have a picnic. But now after going through so many security checks, under the guard of hardworking People’s Armed Police, Special Police, and regular police, who is in the mood for a picnic?
2012


哲蚌寺的安检比奥运严格一百倍!装甲车都开进来了!

Security at Drepung monastery is a hundred times stricter than at the Olympics! Armored vehicles are rolling in!
2012


从羊八井到拉萨的路上看到好多军人,军车,坦克。

On the road from Yangbar Chen to Lhasa I saw so many troops, military vehicles, and tanks.
2012
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拉萨通往纳木措,路遇坦克编队,96式,前后队各40余辆,预计一个营的编制。这里最常见的风景。

In Lhasa heading towards Lake Namtso, encountered a fleet of tanks on the road, Type 96, with groups of 40 vehicles ahead and behind, I expect that they’re preparing a battalion, here it’s a very common sight.
2012
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大昭寺前全副武装的武警巡逻队。扮酷,蒜你狠!

There are armed patrols of People’s Armed Police in front of the Jokhang. Chill out, aren’t you trying to be cool!
2012
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夜里的八廓街没有想象的那么不安全!每个巷子口都有武警!出进都很严格!武警包围了整个八廓街和大昭寺!我在其中当然安全!

The Barkhor doesn’t seem that dangerous at night! Each alley has People’s Armed Police! Entries and exits are strictly controlled! People’s Armed Police surround the Jokhang and the Barkhor! I’m absolutely safe!
2012


大昭寺门口警察都是带家伙的,武警到处都是

The police at the door of the Jokhang all have weapons, there are People’s Armed Police everywhere.
2012
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哲蚌寺维持次序的武警和看晒大佛人流.

People’s Armed Police are maintaining order at Drepung monastery, and regulating the flow of the crowd to see the great Buddha.
2012
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对比拉萨和丽江,虽然两个都已成为商业化的城市,但拉萨更质朴些。一大早醒来就有不少磕长头的人绕着大昭寺转经,许是因为今天是十五的关系,在藏历上也是个大日子。与此格格不入的是,街上到处都是巡逻的武警,边防站和安检口,不知道对于藏民来说,是不是反客为主?

Contrasting Lhasa and Lijiang, although both cities have been commercialized, Lhasa is a bit more pristine. Waking up early in the morning there are a lot of people worshipping at the Jokhang and turning prayer wheels, because today is the 15th, which is an important day in the Tibetan calendar. The People’s Armed Police patrols which fill the streets are incompatible with all this, border posts and security checkpoints, I don’t know with respect to what the Tibetans say, have they really become the masters?
2012


冈仁波齐,墨脱,山南,通麦天险等还想看的景点,稍微遗憾死;在布达拉宫,大昭寺,扎什伦布寺,感受藏传佛教的神秘,向往死;在大部分地区体验了景区的商业化,不爽死;看到汉族文化的入侵,藏文化的逐渐没落,可惜死;看到到处的警察,武警,检查站,安全死了,总之希望有下次

After seeing natural wonders like Gang Rinpoche, Metok, Lhokha, and Tongmai Tianxin, I could die with only slight regrets. In the Potala Palace, the Jokhang, and Tashi Lhunpo monastery I felt the mystery of Tibetan culture, but there I was yearning for death. In most areas the scenic places have been exploited for commercialization, and that isn’t cool. I saw an invasion of Chinese culture, Tibetan culture is gradually disappearing, it’s such a pity. I saw police everywhere, People’s Armed Police, inspection points, sick to death of safety, in short I hope it’ll still have a next time.
2012


拉萨的治安情况并未象朋友们说的那么差,在市区繁华地段每个路口都设有武警,巡警,交警及协警的工作站,在大昭寺门口不时有荷枪实弹的官兵及巡警来回巡逻,随时可解决突发事件。

The law and order situation in Lhasa isn’t as bad like my friend said, each intersection in the downtown area has People’s Armed Police, patrols, and traffic police stations. At the Jokhang from time to time heavily armed officers and soldiers from the People’s Armed Police go on patrol, ready to resolve incidents at any time.
2012
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在拉萨城周边真是岗卡重重。进出的车辆会查N遍证件。巿内在大昭寺外围,各路口都设有安检门,都有特警查身份。2008年的阴云还在,拉萨的气氛还是有些惴惴。

In Lhasa there are really so many checkpoints. Any car entering or exiting will have its documents checked multiple times, around the sides of the Jokhang within the city, each intersection has a security station, where Special Police will inspect your ID. The clouds of 2008 are still with us, the atmosphere in Lhasa was somewhat unsettling.
2012
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哲蚌寺的武警也太多了!不喜欢那个草木皆兵的紧张氛围。还给寺院该有的与世无争的环境吧

There are too many People’s Armed Police at Drepung! I don’t like this panic-stricken tense atmosphere. It gives the monastery the environment of a maddening crowd.
2012


]晚上的大昭寺门口广场,武警警察比其他人多。有必要吗?

At night in the square in front of the Jokhang, there are more People’s Armed Police and regular police than other people combined. Is that really necessary?
2012
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我在哲蚌寺特警好多啊。身份证不离手

I’m at Drepung monastery, there are too many People’s Armed Police! My ID card isn’t leaving my hand.
2012


…大昭寺广场前全副武装的武警战士,每人还有根铁棍,谁讨嫌先用棍子敲…

The square in front of the Jokhang is full of People’s Armed Police, armed to the teeth, standing guard, each one also has an iron bar, whoever bothers them is going to get hit by that bar…
2012
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好吧,大昭寺广场的武警比群众多。

Well, in the Jokhang square there are more People’s Armed Police than regular people.
2012


今天是藏族燃灯街,街上的店铺都早早的关了门,藏民都盛装出行,按着大昭寺转经,街上站满了武警,武警都不让拍照

Today is the Gaden Ngamchoe, all the shops on the street closed their doors early, the Tibetans were all dressed up to go out, the streets were full of People’s Armed Police, they wouldn’t allow me take any pictures.
2012


在大昭寺广场偷拍武警巡逻,被一个拿枪的小哥儿把相机要过去,一张张给删了,不过态度还不错……

I took pictures of a People’s Armed Police patrol at the Jokhang square, but one of them came over and deleted the pictures, but his attitude was OK.
2013


今天下午在布宫广场溜达,晚上大昭寺外八角街晃荡。正逢藏历除夕夜,排队朝拜的人绕大昭寺一圈,三步一武警一警察一特警,赶超春运。饭馆基本关门,烤羊肉串真好吃。

This afternoon I took a stroll through Potala Square, at night I loafed along the Barkhor outside the Jokhang, it happened to be Tibetan New Year’s Eve, pilgrims were lined up in a circle around the Jokhang, every three steps there was one People’s Armed Police, one regular police, and one Special Police, more than during the Spring Festival. Restaurants are all pretty much closed, the roast lamb kebabs are really delicious.
2013


很幸运的是,今年的藏历新年和我们的新年只差一天,不幸的是,七点开始在大昭寺朝佛,队伍老长老长了!我们六点来的,已经排很后了,特警一米就有三个!全国各地的藏民都过来了,人还真是多!

Luckily, this year Tibetan New Year and our New Year were only a day apart, unfortunately, when they opened the doors for pilgrims at the Jokhang at 7 AM, the lines were even longer! We arrived at 6 in the morning, after lining up, there are three Special Police every meter! Tibetans came from all over the country, there are really so many people!
2013
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进大昭寺排了老长的队,见了无比多的武警哥哥。为了民族和谐,就不说啥了。怎一个恐怖了得

The old group lined up to enter the Jokhang, running into an uncountable number of People’s Armed Police brothers. For the sake of ethnic unity, I didn’t say a thing. How could a terrorist do anything?
2013
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今天藏历年初一,朝拜的人超级多,到大昭寺的,已经从八廓街绕了一圈,从大昭寺广场一直延伸到江苏路的路口了,正常不到100米的队伍也得三个小时,这个不得排上两三天了?大昭寺广场前面停了一排巨NB的特警车。。。

Today is the first day of the Tibetan New Year, the worshippers are exceptionally numerous, arriving at the Jokhang and walking a circuit through the Barkhor, from Jokhang square to Jiangsu Street is normally less than 100 meters, the teams last for three hours, can this go on for two or three days? There’s a giant fucking Special Police van parked in front of the Jokhang square.
2013
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在众武警的护卫下前往大昭寺。我跟熊猫说不用送了,搞这么大阵仗不好。

I went to the Jokhang under the guard of masses of People’s Armed Police. I told the panda that there’s no need for this, causing such a big spectacle is bad.
2013
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甘丹寺,西藏名寺。那年沿着盘山路上去,沿途的牛羊象白云一般。在山顶看到大自然的神奇流转,一会情空万里一会乌云密布一会拨云见日,感觉云层就从手心中顠过。在寺院静静行走,看金碧辉煌大殿里那些僧人的寂寥,我似乎悟出了什么。只是,寺院边驻扎着一队队黑衣人,都是武警

Ganden monastery, the most famous temple in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Going along the winding mountain road, cattle and sheep look like white clouds. At the top of the hill you see the magical circulation of nature, you can see for miles when the sun suddenly dispels the clouds, feeling like the clouds could disintegrate in my hands. Walking quietly through the monastery, seeing the solitude of the monks in the great hall, I seem to have realized something. Just at the edge of the monastery are stationed teams of people in black clothing, they’re all People’s Armed Police.
2013


我在大昭寺外面的八角街。差点忘了要顺时针走。嘿嘿。这里的警察实在是多,各种武警特警,几乎都是实枪核弹的,还有各种警车,其中一辆特警车太帅了!!!跟美国大片里的一样!!太帅了!!!

I’m on the Barkhor outside of the Jokhang. I almost forgot that you have to walk clockwise, haha. There are really a ton of police here, all kinds of People’s Armed Police and Special Police, almost all heavily armed with real guns, and there are all kinds of police vehicles, the Special Police vehicles look the coolest!!! It’s like something from a big-budget American movie!!! Too cool!!!
2013


不能停,停下来的话特警会呼你走的……各种特警车,部队的,还有扫雷家伙也有。

Arrived in Lhasa station, everyone disembarking here has to produce their ID cards, which are scanned and registered, when you leave you have to walk straight forward, you can’t stop, and if you do stop for a second Special Police will shout at you to move on… There are a variety of Special Police vehicles, troops, and there’s even an explosives removal guy.
2013
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拉萨不愧是拉萨,到处都是安检的特警

Lhasa is still Lhasa, there are Special Police security checkpoints everywhere.
2013
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大昭寺除了藏民就是武警

At the Jokhang in addition to Tibetans there are People’s Armed Police.
2013


来到拉萨,第一感觉特警比旅客多,几乎50米一个,火车站保安很严密,冒着生命危险拍了一张,火车站打的很坑爹,行李建议上公交,当地藏民还是很友善和淳朴的,商人除外。。。

I’ve arrived in Lhasa, my first impression is that there are more Special Police than tourists, almost every fifty meters, security is very rigorous at the train station, you risk your life by taking a picture, I’d recommend taking your luggage on public transit, local Tibetans are still very friendly and honest, businessmen excluded…
2013


到了日光城了,大街小巷都在市建尘土飞扬的。有些不习惯一路来不断的安检和拉萨市内50米一派出所、治安点。。。特警-武警﹣警察-治安员

I’ve arrived in the City of Sunshine, the big streets and little alleys are full of dust. I’m not used to the constant security checkpoints and police stations every 50 meters in Lhasa… Special Police, People’s Armed Police, regular police, security guards
2013


拉萨居然晚上九点才天黑,哥在这里吹了九个小时的风,终于看到布达拉宫的夜景了 吹傻了……Ps:国家的维稳力量真强大,五步一岗,十步一哨,安检比机场还严。每五分钟一队民警经过,十分钟一队特警,半小时一个排的军人路过

I didn’t realize that it doesn’t get dark at night until 9 in Lhasa, for 9 hours the wind has been blowing, but now I’m finally getting a view of the Potala Palace at night, stupid wind… PS: The stability maintenance forces of our country are really powerful, a post every five steps, and a sentry every ten. Security is stricter than at an airport, every five minutes a squad of police pass by, every ten minutes a squad of Special Police, every half hour a company of troops.
2013


本想今天就待在客栈不活动了,可是按耐不住,出来徒步,从布达拉宫走到大昭寺,八廓街,跟着藏民转经,抬头看到玛吉阿米,进去要了碗藏式甜茶,拉萨警察和武警特别多 很安全。

I just wanted to relax at the hostel today, but I couldn’t do it, went out for a stroll, walked from the Potala to the Jokhang, the Barkhor, followed the Tibetans as they spun their prayer wheels, looked up and saw Magye Ama, went in to get a bowl of Tibetan sweet tea, there are so many Lhasa Police and People’s Armed Police out, very safe.
2013


今日二妹语录1:大昭寺过安检,请问你们是24小时营业吗?安检武警:对的,24小时的,随时恭候!

Today Ermei said: Going through security at the Jokhang, are you guys open 24 hours a day? People’s Armed Police security said: that’s right, 24 hours, we’re always waiting!
2013


今天去大昭寺的路上一路武警 进大昭寺广场还要安检 偷偷拍安检过程时被武警发现了 勒令把安检的镜头全部删掉了

Today the road on the way to the Jokhang was full of People’s Armed Police. There are also security checks when you enter Jokhang square. I was secretly taking pictures of the screening process but they noticed, and they ordered me to delete all of the pictures of the security measures.
2013
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哈哈哈,一哥们去拉萨偷拍武警,差点被揍了

Hahaha, a buddy went to Lhasa and secretly took this picture of People’s Armed Police, almost got beaten up.
2013
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拉萨•寺庙#•大昭寺•小昭寺•色拉寺及没记住名字的寺庙。听不懂他们的语言,不了解他们的文化,但是他们的虔诚还是让我们敬畏。拉萨到处是警察特警,一个路口一个110岗哨,没有自由的宗教让我觉得无比悲哀无比难过

In Lhasa, went to the temple, the Jokhang, Ramoche temple, Sera monastery, and other monasteries whose name I forgot. I don’t understand their language, or their culture, but their piety leaves us in awe. Everywhere in Lhasa you can see police and Special Police, every street corner has a checkpoint, there’s no freedom of religion and it makes me so sad, so upset.
2013

NYINGTRI

这两天都在林芝八一镇休整,住在藏族别墅里,太阳能却没有太阳,两天没洗澡。路上好多武警拿着防暴装备在巡逻,两旁的商铺很新很干净,商业街很安静没人光顾。

I’ve been resting for two days at Bayi town in Nyingtri, living in a Tibetan home, there are solar panels but there’s no sun, I haven’t bathed in two days. On the streets there are many People’s Armed Police holding riot gear on patrol, shops on both sides of the street are very new and clean, the shopping street is very quiet with no one shopping there.
2013


道口不知道,我在西藏林芝,早起沿着尼洋河拍风景,拍到尼洋河大桥,桥头站岗的武警发现我拍照,枪都举起来了,勒令我删照片,差点下来把我擒了,那就是个公路桥

I’m not sure which intersection, I’m in Tibet’s Nyingtri prefecture, got up early to take pictures of the landscape around the Nyang river, photographed the great Nyang River bridge, but when the People’s Armed Police at the bridgehead noticed that I had taken the pictures, he raised his guns and ordered me to delete them, he almost seized me, this is a highway bridge
2013

LHOKA

我草,街上各种装甲车,去的是山南(印度边境)。这个时候大家懂的。西藏真神奇

Fuck me, there are all kinds of armored vehicles on the streets, heading to Lhoka (on the Indian border). At this time everyone understands. The Tibet Autonomous Region is truly magical.
2012

CHAMDO

澜沧江的发源处,那曲河与昂曲河的汇合处,也是金鹰广场鹰嘴的下方;还有昌都的步行街,街上特有的巡逻特警车,每一座桥桥头都有站岗防守的军人

At the source of the Lancang river, at the confluence of the Nagchu river and the Yu’ang river, below Golden Eagle Square is Chamdo’s pedestrian street, the street is full of Special Police vehicles on patrol, each side of each bridge has a military defense post.
2011


川藏线走了一半,前后过了13个安检口,每个县城前后一个。波密县同时有公安,武警和特警,武警打开了我们所有的行李,里外翻腾,说:不好意思,今天是庆祝党的节日。。。

I’ve driven through half of the Sichuan-Tibet highway, in total there are 13 security checkpoints, one in front of and behind each county town. Bomi county had Public Security, People’s Armed Police, and Special Police. People’s Armed Police searched all of our bags, rummaging around through the inside and outside, and said: “Sorry, today there’s a holiday celebrating the Party.”
2011


昌都位於藏東,西藏第二大城市。擁有亞洲第一大世界第二的玉龍銅礦,是瀾滄江的源頭。上午陰雨綿綿,使得昌都的山水顯得更爲柔和,米西完中午飯,下午準備去擁有六百多年歷史的格魯教派寺廟強巴林寺。因爲西藏解放60週年的原因,西藏各縣加強了治安巡邏,圖爲昌都城區看到的裝甲防暴車。

Chamdo is in eastern Tibet, the second biggest city in the Tibet Autonomous Region. With the first in Asia and the second in the world Yulong copper mine, it’s the source of the Lancang River. It’s a rainy morning, the landscape around Chamdo is gentle, after we finished eating lunch, and we’re prepared to go to the 600 year-old Gelug school temple, Jampa Ling, this afternoon. Because it’s the 60th anniversary of the liberation of Tibet, all the counties in the Tibet Autonomous Region have strengthened their security patrols, this picture shows the heavily-armed armored vehicles I saw in Chamdo city.
2011
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我们到达江达了,没有93汽油。初步说有吃无住,现自己解决晚餐。镇上的藏民有点小恐怖。我们都把记者袖标摘下了。特警车在镇上巡逻。

We arrived in Jomda, they don’t have any 93 octane gasoline. First we decided to get a bite to eat before looking for a place to stay, so now everyone is taking care of their own dinner. There are a few terrorists among the Tibetans in town. We took off our reporter armbands. Special Police vehicles are patrolling the town.
2011


江达这个地方没有甘孜那么多警力,但还是能看到特警

Jomda doesn’t have as many police as Kardze, but you can still spot some Special Police.
2011
76 - Weibo appendix


这地方不太平啊,街上警察巡逻,部队门口都是防卫装置,过完今晚,速度离开江达

This place isn’t peaceful! There are police patrols on the street, armed forces protect gates with defensive barricades, I’m done tonight, quickly leaving Jomda.
2011


在昌都这的城市中随处可见到:维护和平 反对分裂的标语 岗楼中武警荷枪实弹 大街上手拿警棍的巡警及装甲车,也许是快过节的原因吧。

In Chamdo you can see these things everywhere: safeguarding peace, opposing separatist slogans, heavily-armed People’s Armed Police in watchtowers, armored vehicles patrolling the streets and clubs in hands, maybe it’s because of there’ll be a holiday soon!
2011


芒康這個貌似不太安全的懸城,一早成條街都無人,只見警車和防暴軍隊巡邏!只聞警聲在街上回蕩!我們還是走到城外等車,離開這地方!

Markham doesn’t seem like a very safe city, there’s no one on the streets early in the morning; I only saw police vehicles and riot-control troops! I only heard the sound of police sirens echoing down the streets! We’ve gone outside the city to wait for a bus, getting out of this place!
2011


江達縣城街上有很多武警,進城出城都設有關卡。感覺也不大太平。。。找了一家交通飯店,價格還公道可以洗澡。從爐霍出來就沒正常洗浴過。

There are a lot of People’s Armed Police on the streets of the Jomda county town, there are checkpoints on the way into and out of the city. Really doesn’t feel very peaceful… Found a Jiaotong Hotel to stay in, the price was fair and I can take a bath. There’s no normal bathing beyond Luohu.
2012


回忆今天从理塘经巴塘到芒康,理塘更像藏区而且气氛紧张,巴塘像汉族地区,芒康则满街是特警和武警了。

Memories from my travels today from Lithang to Bathang to Markham, Lithang has a more tense atmosphere like the other Tibetan areas, Bathang is more like a Chinese area, and in Markham the streets are full of Special Police and People’s Armed Police.
2012


今天比较轻松,昌都休闲游。上午游强巴林寺。 西藏果然很紧张,昌都县里三步一岗五步一哨,里面很多警察,不过这倒让我们觉得非常的安全,也很方面问路。 这里面是实枪核弹的士兵,不敢对着他直接照,假装照人。

Feeling really relaxed today, touring Chamdo at leisure. This morning I went to Jampa Ling monastery. The Tibet Autonomous Region is really tense, in Chamdo county there’s a sentry every three steps and a post every five steps, inside there are a ton of police, but this makes us feel very safe, and makes it easy to get directions. This is a real armed soldier, I didn’t dare to take a picture of him directly, pretended to be taking one of the other people.
2012
77 - Weibo appendix


西藏就是西藏,屁大呢一个县城每一百米有一个110还有武警抬着防暴盾在街上巡逻。相当酷
西藏自治区,昌都地区,芒康县,214国道

Tibet is Tibet, every tiny farting county town has a policeman and some People’s Armed Police with riot shields every hundred meters.
2012


芒康这地方,小吃客栈遍地,但是开着的,都是外地人。藏人汉人同居此地,看起安详,但是随处可见的防暴警察特警武警可见此处并不安宁。傍晚时分,藏人的牛羊被赶回家,路上可见羊狗牛各种动物,骑行其中,感觉总是怪怪的。还有一点,一路上,碰到的狗非常之多,但是猫,不超过五只

This place Markham, it’s the land of snack shops and guesthouses, but the people who opened them are all outsiders. Tibetans and Chinese live together here, it looks peaceful, but it isn’t, everywhere you can see riot control police, Special Police, and People’s Armed Police. In the evenings, the Tibetans livestock all go home, you can see all kinds of animals like sheep and dogs and cattle on the road, riding among them, it feels strange. Another thing, along the road I’ve run into so many dogs, but not more than five cats.
2012
78 - Weibo appendix


朋友请吃饭,窗外看到武装警察巡逻,听说拉萨就像巴格达 我在芒康县

A friend treated me to a meal, I saw People’s Armed Police on patrol outside the window, I’ve heard that Lhasa resembles Baghdad. I’m in Markham county.
2012
79 - Weibo appendix


停车检查,自进西藏昌都地区以来至八宿已有十余次设卡检查身份证,怎么说呢,此趟行程不谈政治不愤青做个好公民,积极配合就是。日后游客进藏大可放心,西藏发展今非昔比日新月异。我国武警打击非法犯罪威武勇猛,抢修道路出击神速功不可没「禁止拍照」

Stopping the car for inspections, since entering Chamdo Prefecture on the way to Baxiu I’ve already been stopped a dozen times for ID checks, how to say, on this trip we can’t talk about politics or be angry youth but rather be a good citizen, and actively cooperate. Future tourists in Tibet can rest assured that the rapid development of the Tibet Autonomous Region is making it into a much better place every day. The People’s Armed Police of our country are might and brave when they fight the illegal criminals, and rapidly repair broken roads, you are forbidden from taking any pictures.
2012


进盐井要身份证检查,进芒康也要身份证登记,下午的芒康警笛响彻全城,足足响了一个多小时,武警、特警、预备役、各种先进的装备令人叹为观止,个个荷枪实弹,总之,一进西藏,总感觉一种特别的氛围,看来社会的安定与否并不是我们这些生活在太平幸福环境的人所能想象的…

Upon entering Tsakha Lho they check your ID card, entering Markham they also take down your ID number, this afternoon sirens echoed through the entire city of Markham, for more than an hour, People’s Armed Police, Special Police, reservists, armed with an incredible array of advanced equipment, all heavily armed, overall, as soon as you enter Tibet, you experience a very particular atmosphere, it seems like social stability or the lack thereof is something that those of us who live in peaceful and happy environments can only imagine…
2012
80 - Weibo appendix


西藏自治区,昌都地区,八宿县,318国道,川藏线第十九天,邦达-业拉山-七十二拐-怒江大桥-八宿。下业拉山七十二拐四十公里下坡,安全无意外。进入大峡谷,风景与昨日强烈对比,怒江涛涛,大石中流,崖壁陡直,亲眼看见山石落入江中,怒江大桥武警持枪把手,不准拍照。

The Tibet Autonomous Region, Chamdo Prefecture, Pashui County, Route 318, day 19 on the Sichuan-Tibet highway. Banda, Yela Shan, 72 bridge of the Gyalmo Ngulchu river, Pashui, safety is guaranteed. I entered the Great Canyon, the landscape was a stark contrast with yesterday, the waves of the Gyalmo Ngulchu river, mid-stream boulders and steep precipices, I saw rocks falling into the river, on the Gyalmo Ngulchu Bridge there are People’s Armed Police with guns in their hands, I wasn’t allowed to take a picture.
2012


芒康,一座川藏滇交汇的昌都地区县城,各种服务设施应有尽有,一座和西藏其它城市一样,是集特警、武警、防爆、公安及军队等暴力机关下的城市,的确,稳定高于一切,西藏不可分裂,人民团结万岁!

Markham, a county in Chamdo at the intersection of the Tibet Autonomous Region and Sichuan, different service facilities have everything, the same as the other cities in the Tibet Autonomous Region, it’s a city ruled by Special Police, People’s Armed Police, Explosives Protection, the Public Security Bureau, the armed forces, and other violent organs. Indeed, stability above all else, Tibet cannot split from the motherland, ethnic unity forever!
2012


从拉萨到昌都时见到了大概两个师规模的军车队,应该是去参加军事演习的。当时拍照时有一个军官很嚣张的说,不许发围脖,那意思谁发跨省谁。现在我估计军事演习结束了,就手贱发发吧

On the way from Lhasa to Chamdo I saw a military convoy that must have been the size of two divisions, they should be going to participate in military exercises. At the time I was taking a picture when one of the officers arrogantly said, you can’t send any weibo posts, whoever sends one would be punished. Now I guess military exercises are finished, so my bad hand can send them!
2012


赶了一天车,德格–昌都,离拉萨还有1083公里。只是进藏的时候很郁闷,检查站超多,并且要求我们闭嘴,我说了句,如果政府做的好,谁还要臧独!就有个武警说要把我赶回去!真操蛋……如此善良的藏族人民都不喜欢你们,你们真要反思原因了。

I caught a bus from Derge to Chamdo, we’re 1083 kilometers away from Lhasa. But my time in Tibet has been very depressing, there are so many checkpoints, where they tell you to shut up. I said, if the government were doing a good job, who would want Tibetan independence? So then a People’s Armed Policeman said that he wants to send me back. So messed up! If even all these kind Tibetans don’t like you, you really should reflect on the reasons for that.
2012


进藏,两个县城过了八个检查站,每次严查身份证,云南藏区人进藏必须由公安局开通行证明。昨晚路过芒康,只有一条街道的县城里,停着六辆防暴警车。

Entering Tibet, in two counties I’ve gone through eight inspection stations, each time they seriously inspect my ID card, people entering the Tibet Autonomous Region from the Tibetan region in Yunnan must provide proof to the Public Security Bureau to go on. Last night I passed through Markham, it’s just a one-street county town, but there were six riot control police vehicles parked there.
2012


芒康县城戒备森严,每5百米就有岗亭,藏区县城以上城区都一样。个人认为这方面还得加强,藏区这么多兵站和部队也得发挥作用,当然民生基础教育汉化也得加强。我远远拍一队全副武装武警背影,竟然他们没回头也发现,素质警戒太高了,因为是远拍所以也未被删除。

Markham county town is heavily fortified, every 500 meters there’s a guard post, Tibetan counties have more security than cities. Personally I think this should be strengthened even more, the many military depots and troops in Tibetan areas have to play a role, and of course the people’s livelihood, education, and Sinicization also have to be strengthened. I took a picture of a team of heavily-armed People’s Armed Police from afar, and it turns out they didn’t notice, their level of vigilance was too high, and because it was taken from afar it wasn’t deleted.
2013
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芒康治安就是好,公安特警随处找

Law and order are good in Markham, Public Security and Special police are ubiquitous.
2013
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芒康。一路都要检查身份证,一路都见藏民把国旗插在自家屋顶,一路看见无数的士兵武警警车。即便这个国家问题层出不穷,依然无法抹灭赤子之心。

Markham. On every street they inspect your ID card, on every street Tibetans have put the national flag on their own roofs, on every street you can see innumerable soldiers, People’s Armed Police, and police vehicles. Even if national problems are arising, still there is an inerasable innocence.
2013


进入芒康,犹如进入伊拉克巴格达,戒备森严,整条主干道都布满了巡警,这里的藏民神情也很特别,显得特别不友善,刚刚深夜还有五六个特警来查房,这注定是一个不平静的城市。我宁愿相信芒康只是西藏的一个特例,其他地方的藏民还是非常友好的!

Entering Markham, it’s like arriving in Baghdad, Iraq. Heavily guarded, the entire main street is full of police patrols. The expression of local Tibetans is very particular, they seem particularly unfriendly, just now there were late-night room inspections by 5 or 6 Special Police, this must not be a peaceful city. I prefer to believe that Markham is just a special case; Tibetans in other areas are still very friendly!
2013


【西藏初印象】从盐井进藏落脚芒康,西藏的不同一路上毫不掩饰地向我们展示:各项安检登记 驾驶证身份证还有禽流感 各种藏居特色 玛尼堆经幡以及每家每户的中国国旗 各类巡逻人员 公安警察武警或许还有便衣 各路驴友背包客 徒步骑车自驾或搭车~西藏的特别果真不是盖的~

First impressions of Tibet: Entered the Tibet Autonomous Region from Tsakha Lho and stopped in Markham, and we saw the way Tibet is unabashedly different: various security inspections, ID cards and drivers licenses still have bird flu, prayer flags fly along with Chinese flags on every house, various types of police officers on patrol, Public Security and police and People’s Armed Police and maybe plainclothes police, traveling backpackers on the roads, on foot or on bikes or in cars or just getting rides, Tibet’s special qualities indeed aren’t covered~
2013
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芒康县城的街头随时能看到来回巡逻的武警和特警,数一数一共两列,一列八行,刚好两个班的人数

You can see People’s Armed Police and Special Police patrolling the streets of the Markham county town at any time, counting two lines of eight people each, making up a full two units.
2013
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SHIGATSE

从日喀则回拉萨的路上,看公路两旁站了两排特警,到现在有30来公里了。是有中央领导要来吗?

On the way back to Lhasa from Shigatse, I saw two rows of Special Police standing on both sides of the highway for thirty or so kilometers. Is the central leadership coming to visit?
2011


日夜兼程的奔波…上午九点左右到达日喀则。为西藏解放60周年庆典,整个西藏增加了大批军队也增加武警及公安检查站的数量,今天日喀则市内毫不夸张地说更是三步一哨五步一岗满街的公安武警甚至扎什伦布寺内都随处可见武警站岗……

Been running around all day and night… Got to Shigatse at around 9 o’clock. Because it’s the 60th anniversary of the liberation of Tibet, there’s a large troop presence throughout Tibet and they’ve increased the number of People’s Armed Police and Public Security Bureau checkpoints, it’s no exaggeration to say that today Shigatse has a sentry every three steps, and a post every five steps. The streets are full of People’s Armed Police and Public Safety officers, even Tashilhunpo has People’s Armed Police sentries all over the place…
2011


今天日喀则降温了,太阳也没有,连武警战士都穿上军大衣了。

Today it got chilly in Shigatse, no sign of the sun, even People’s Armed Police soldiers were wearing big coats.
2011


晚饭中!Dicos!洋气吧!!!我还是适合吃垃圾食品!话说今天路上经常看见佩步枪的特警,是有动乱吗?行程可能又要变,日喀则就看一座寺庙,放弃。一个人好孤独。。。

Eating dinner! At Dicos restaurant! Western-style! I can still eat junk food! On the road today I saw a lot of Special Police armed with rifles, is there unrest? I might have to change the itinerary, and just see one monastery in Shigatse, then give up. I’m alone and feel lonely…
2011


今天我们驾车8个多小时来到了距离珠峰大本营还有100百多公里的定日县居住,准备明天5点前往大本营看日出(但愿明天天气帮忙)。 今天不知是什么大领导造访日喀则,100多公里内公路两旁都是三步一岗五步一哨武警和公安,一路赶着我们快走,使我们得到了意想不到的顺利。

Today we drove more than eight hours in the car before arriving at the Mount Everest base camp, and there are still more than 100 kilometers to go before we get to our place to stay in Dingri county, at 5 AM tomorrow we’re going to watch the sunrise from the base camp (I hope the weather tomorrow will cooperate). I don’t know which big leaders were visiting Shigatse today, along more than 100 kilomters of road there were People’s Armed Police and Public Security personnel with a post every three steps and a sentry every five steps. We went quickly the entire way, an unexpectedly smooth ride.
2012


晚上在日喀则转悠了一下,安静,干净,打的很容易,是不是有特警巡逻,不愧是西藏第二大城市。著名的扎寺就在这里,明天去扎寺。

I’m taking a little stroll around Shigatse at night, it’s very quiet and clean, taking it easy, there might be Special Police patrols, indeed this is the second largest city in the Tibet Autonomous Region, the famous Tashilhunpo monastery is here, I’m going there tomorrow.
2012


来到日喀则地区最大的寺庙扎什伦布寺,遇上寺院祈福,藏民涌至。虽有武警封寺没得进入,但在广场遇到藏民洒象征吉祥安康的臧粑于身,倍感荣幸

I’ve arrived at the largest monastery in the Shigatse area, Tashilhunpo, there’s a huge influx of Tibetans coming to get blessings, but the People’s Armed Police closed the monastery and didn’t let people enter, however in the square I ran into Tibetans sprinkling tsampa on each other as a sign of good luck and well-being, I feel honored.
2013


在西藏加油是要登记身份证的~在日喀则加油只有司机一个人能进加油站的~在路上跑是要限速的每个站点都要检查的~乘客是要被查做身份验证的~各个寺院都有武警驻扎的~剩下等我想到再补充

You need to register with your ID card when you buy gasoline in the Tibet Autonomous Region… In Shigatse only one driver can be in the car when it enters a gas station… In each area they have inspections to make sure you follow the speed limit… They also inspect the ID cards of all passengers… Various temples have People’s Armed Police encampments… Just thought I should say this.
2013


日喀则的两天,觉得除了今天去了扎什倫布寺才觉得到了日喀则,要不老在街上逛根本感觉不出俺到了日喀则,街上小摊好多,店面也复古,还都有带着彩条的屋檐,街上的人不少,喇嘛也不少,当然这时期最少不了的警察叔叔也不会缺,路上巡逻的武警,带工兵铲的,带金属探测器的,带散弹枪的,一个不少~

Two days in Shigatse, today I only felt like I was in Shigatse when I visited Tashilhunpo monastery, otherwise strolling in the old streets it doesn’t really feel like Shigatse, there are a lot of little stalls on the streets, the stores are old-fashioned, and there are colored stripes running along the eaves. There are a lot of people on the streets, and many lamas, and of course during this period there’s no shortage of police, People’s Armed Police patrolling the roads, with shovels, with metal detectors, with shotguns, plenty of these.
2013


下午到日喀则,出城进城都要有武警检查身份证 导游是个很黑很黑的藏家小伙。坐车在靠窗的位置 心情好了很多。

Arrived in Shigatse this afternoon, People’s Armed Police have to check your ID card upon entering or leaving the city, the tour guide is a very dark-skinned Tibetan guy. Sitting by the window in the car made me feel a lot better.
2013

NAGCHU

那曲地区不知何原因,街上到处警车,特警部队也出动了一些形状怪异的车子,包括我在电影中看到过的装甲车,在此过程中,交警部门也极力配合,只要特警车队最后一辆过了十字路口立马将绿灯变成红灯。

I don’t know why, but there are police cars everywhere on the streets in Nagchu. The Special Police have been deployed in some oddly-shaped cars, including armored vehicles like the ones I’ve seen in the movies, the traffic police are also highly involved in this process, once the last Special Police vehicle has passed through an intersection the light will change from green to red.
2011


到那曲啦 找住宿中 好多特警 肿么介么多车车内…

Onwards towards Nagchu! Looking for a place to stay, there are so many Special Police, all inside of so many cars…
2011


那曲到了,时间还早,我们想看看附近有什么可玩的,停在路边查询,一辆辆特警车从面前驶过,感觉好安全!査到一三十几公里处有湖,走到分岔口一看那小土路我们觉得对于今天还是别冒险了。又问了一气都说附近没什么可看的,我们也泄气了,准备找住处早点休息

Arrived in Nagchu, it’s still early, we want to take a look around and see if we can find anything fun to do, as we were asking around on the side of the road these Special Police cars passed by the front, feeling very safe! We found there’s a lake 30 or so kilometers away, but when we came to a fork in the road we decided not to take the risk today. We asked around again and heard that there’s nothing to see around here, we’re discouraged, we plan to find a place to go to bed pretty soon.
2012
85 - Weibo appendix


6月16号,安多县公安给俺开证明,早9点往拉萨行进,一路有二个重要安检点,行李都得过扫描,武警持枪严肃。有五个限速点,到达下点不䏻提前,如提前用银子买单。。。。

On June 16th Amdo county Public Security gave me my permit, at 9 o’clock on the way to Lhasa there were two checkpoints on the street, scanning through your luggage, serious People’s Armed Police with guns. There are five speed restriction points, if you reach the next point in advance of when you should be able to, they’ll require you to pay some money.
2012


木大已过,那曲街头依然荷枪实弹,特警和装甲车队全天绕城巡逻。更甚的是,明天要去的县,比如,手机信号屏蔽。

I’ve passed Muda, the streets of Nagchu are still full of heavily armed Special Police and armored vehicles doing all-day patrols around the city. Even worse, the county I’m going to tomorrow, Driru, has jammers which block cell phone signals.
2012

NGARI

现在武警萨嘎边防大队登记,马上进入阿里地区。

Currently registering with the People’s Armed Police in Saga, entering Ngari soon.
2011


边检之后进入阿里地区,车里的人挨个检查通行证和身份证

Entered Ngari after going through border inspections, they check the permits and ID cards of each person in the car one by one.
2011


前方就是开始进入阿里地区了,这里检查比较严格,大概等了一小时左右,12:30分我们终于顺利通过阿里的边防检查站,在这里遇到一个有十几辆车的印度车队,他们都是去岗仁波齐神山朝拜的。听说每年都有很多印度人来到这边转神山进行朝拜,也有很多是专门到山里修炼的。

Right about to enter Ngari, here the inspections are incredibly strict, after waiting about an hour, at 12:30 we finally passed through the border inspection post of Ngari, here we came across a group of ten or more vehicles full of Indians, heading over to Gang Rinpoche holy mountain on pilgrimage. I’ve heard it said that many Indians come here to worship every year, and there are many practitioners living in the mountains.
2012


9:55分,马攸桥检查站。进入阿里地区要在马攸桥接受检查,排队等了一个多小时,据报道说拉萨至狮泉河全线通柏油路,十几个小时可以到达。定日的检查站也一样,排着两排长队。也许过不了几年,西藏也可能象内地的景区一样。抓紧吧!

9:55, at the Ma You Bridge checkpoint. You have to be inspected when you enter Ngari through Ma Yao Bridge, after waiting in line for more than an hour. It is said that the entire stretch from Lhasa to Sengge Tsangpo town is a proper road, it takes more than a dozen hours to get there. The checkpoint at Dingri is the same, cars queued up in two long rows. Perhaps after a few years the scenic spots in Tibet will be like those in the mainland. Make the most of it!
2012


坐大巴从拉萨到阿里,一路上检查站太多,每到一处就会有边防武警或警察上来像数鸡一样,被数好几遍了!

Sitting on the bus from Lhasa to Ngari, there are too many checkpoints on the way, each one has an equal number of armed border police and regular police who count us like a farmer counting chickens, checked several times!

西藏自治区,阿里地区,噶尔县,219国道

2013


QINGHAI

YUSHU

玉树,灾后重建两年,一片狼藉,尘土飞扬,工程进度缓慢,施工受阻,中央好政策但地方配合不到位!治安混乱,特警巡逻!

Yushu, after two years of reconstruction, is still a messy, dusty place, construction is moving slowly, projects are blocked, the policies of the central government are good but the cooperation from local authorities isn’t good. There’s poor public order, special police are on patrol.
2012


出玉树的时候遇见特警检查,看标叫“猎鹰突击队”,真威武啊!可惜不能照相

Leaving Yushu I was inspected by the special police, I saw they were called “Falcon Commandoes,” how mighty! Unfortunately, you can’t take any pictures of them.
2012


青海玉树治安太差,大清早小卖部遭强,我想问一下那些带着枪巡逻的特警是干什么用的,这样地方谁敢来投资,怪不得这个地方还是这样落后。

Law and order is very poor in Qinghai’s Yushu, even in the morning light shops have been robbed, I would like to ask what all those People’s Armed Police with guns were doing on patrol, would anyone dare to invest in a place like this, no wonder this place is still so backwards.
2013


突然听到门口很整齐的口号、很嘹亮的军歌,大家都跑出来看,就看到玉树新进一批武警部队,那阵势叫一个壮观!像军人致敬!

Suddenly I heard very neat slogans from outside the door, very loud and clear military songs, everyone ran out to take a look, we saw a new group of People’s Armed Police headed to Yushu, the battle formation was magnicifent! I would like to pay tribute to the soldiers!
2013

青海省,玉树藏族自治州,玉树县,214国道

86 - Weibo appendix

GOLOG

进入青海内,见不到阳光让人挺郁闷的,昨天住阿坝县,居然没网络信号,并且随处可见解放军和警察,今晚入住花石峡,网络越来越稀少,更新速度减慢咯

Entered Qinghai, being unable to see the sun makes people depressed, yesterday I stayed in Ngaba county, I was surprised to find there was no internet signal, and PLA and police were ubiquitous, tonight I’m staying at Huashixia, internet access is getting scarce, updates will be slower.
2011


果洛州藏民有骚动,西宁特警开赴该地区。在返回路上,遇到车队。

There’s unrest among the Tibetans in Golog, Xining Special Police have entered the region. Came across their convoys as I was on the road heading back.
2012
87 - Weibo appendix


眼睛都睁不开了,依然睡不着。睡在这走在路上要被喇嘛和藏族同胞直勾勾当外国人看的小县城,看到戒备森严外加装甲车的县政府 ,再想到白天的惊吓,在我心里,一下子觉得不那么和谐了。这里是当地最高级的酒店,在县政府对面,公安局旁边,有热水有电视,一晚两百。可我还是无法安睡。我在青海达日县。

Even though I can’t keep my eyes open, but I still can’t sleep. Sleeping in this little county town on the road with lamas and Tibetan compatriots peering at foreigners, seeing the heavy fortifications and armored vehicles at the county government, still thinking of being frightened during the day, in my heart, suddenly I don’t think it’s very harmonious here. This is the most luxurious hotel in the area, across from the county government buildings, next to the Public Security Bureau, it has hot water and TV, 200 yuan each night. But I still can’t sleep. I’m in Darlag county, Qinghai.
2012

MALHO

明天是藏人的节日,这里是藏族自治州,气氛非常紧张,路边村口都是警车,这个日子口千万不能有任何的接触处,稍有不慎,就会成为牺牲品。

Tomorrow is a Tibetan holiday, this is a Tibetan autonomous prefecture, the atmosphere is very tense, along the side of the road by the entrance to the village there are a lot of police cars, today I can’t maintain any kind of contact, if I make a small mistake I might be victimized.
2011


黄南州,青海的某个小村,路过。大群少数名族群众与类似武警对峙,气氛极度紧张。新浪围脖,quantum摄影首发,求真相!

Malho Prefecture, a small village in Qinghai, just passing through. A large group of ethnic minorities are confronting the People’s Armed Police, the atmosphere is very tense. The picture was taken by Quantum and posted on Weibo, to seek the truth!
2011
88 - Weibo appendix


全副武装的武警。。。不敢拍。。。就用手机拍的。。。
青海省,黄南藏族自治州,尖扎县

Heavily-armed People’s Armed Police… Couldn’t take a picture… So I used my phone to take a shot…
2012
89 - Weibo appendix


XINING

正月十五逛塔尔寺之:特警安保

Fifteenth day of the month at Kumbum: guarded by Special Police.
2011
90 - Weibo appendix


在西宁换车咯,换车就站满了武警,这是拉萨的前兆吗?

Changing trains in Xining, noticed that the station is full of People’s Armed Police, is this a precursor to Lhasa?
2012


从西宁转车了,去西藏就是不一样,有武警守着

Changed trains in Xining, going to the Tibet Autonomous Region is different, there are People’s Armed Police guards.
2012


进入西宁,看到一群装甲车cool吃货模式启动

Entering Xining, I saw a group of armored vehicles, cool, activated my eating mode.
2012
91 - Weibo appendix


从西宁西站登上去拉萨的火车,手册上说这是世界上最先进的旅行火车,上车一看与普通绿皮特快列车无异,除了每节车厢入口处有武警陪伴验票。问乘务员,答曰:车头是,车身是山寨的。后几个字还带着四川普通话声调。坦诚加自嘲式幽默,晕!哈哈一笑,没脾气了!

Boarded the train to Lhasa from Xining West Station, the booklet says this is the most advanced tourist train in the world, onboard it looks the same as any green express train, except for the People’s Armed Police inspecting tickets in front of every car. I asked the conductor, and he told me that the engine was real, but the body of the car was faked and copied from foreign designs. The last of his words were spoken with the Sichuan style of Mandarin. Hah, such frank and self-deprecating humor! I laughed, and my anger was gone.
2012


到了西宁,我和所有到拉萨的乘客换乘到另一列有供氧设备的列车,每个检票口都配了一名武警,可惜不能拍照,很是威武呢。

Arrived in Xining, all of us passengers going on to Lhasa were transferred to another train with oxygen equipment, each ticket gate is staffed by People’s Armed Police, unfortunately you aren’t allowed to take pictures, it’s very powerful.
2012


我靠~ 西宁这里查的真他妈严, 到处是武警还好买票顺利

Shit~ Here in Xining the inspections are fucking strict, there are People’s Armed Police everywhere, luckily I bought my tickets smoothly.
2012


9点多去塔尔寺看酥油花 结果一直到窝12点回来 还是人山人海…武警交警特警消防也站的难解难分

2月24日12:23
Went to Kumbum at 9 or so to see the yak butter sculptures, ended up getting back home at 12. There was still a sea of people… People’s Armed Police, traffic police, Special Police, and firefighters were locked into the battle

TSONUB

格尔木火车站,为什么要出动武警维持秩序?藏族同胞很善良很厚道的好吗?每个肉菜都是以肉为主的好吗?还送我大苹果好吗?

Why do they need to send People’s Armed Police to maintain order at the Golmud Train Station? Our Tibetan compatriots are very kind and generous, right? Every meat dish is mostly made of meat, right? Giving me an apple instead is ok, right?
2011


经过十三个半小时的长途跋涉,经过一个武警安全检查站,一个五元收费站,眼前一片灯火通明,我们终于到达了,青海格尔木市,寻找休息的地方

After a 13.5 hour long-distance journey, after passing through a People’s Armed Police safety inspection, a five-yuan toll station, we finally arrived in brightly-lit Golmud City in Qinghai. Now we’re looking for a place to rest.
2011


从格尔木开始有高反,头疼、头晕。这滋味不好受,所以基本在铺上躺着。想来是红景天吃的晚了,且和高原安数量吃的不够(才各吃了2粒)。下次来一定提前两周吃,并且一次各吃4粒。下午4时准点抵达拉萨,本想在站前留影,特警不让,只好用手机远远拍了张,留作记念。

Altitude sickness started when the train left from Golmud station, a headache, dizziness, giving me a hard time, so I pretty much just laid down on my bunk. I guess I took the medicine called Hongjingtian too late, and I didn’t have enough of the Gaoyuan’an medicine (I only ate two pills of each type). Next time I’ll definitely take the medicine for two weeks in advance, and take four each time. Arrived in Lhasa right on time at 4 PM, I wanted to take pictures of the station but the Special Police wouldn’t let me. I had to take a picture from far away, set aside for my memory.
2012
92 - Weibo appendix


终于从格尔木到达西宁了,坐了一天的火车。途中预见中国的坦克。

At last I’ve arrived in Xining from Golmud, sat on the train for a day. On the way I saw China’s tanks.
2012
93 - Weibo appendix


不知道是哪位领导大家光临,前面武警途锐开道,后面交警垫底,我们早上在格尔木搭到这位大哥的车,不容易,在不知情的情况下超过了车队,然后被这位威武的交警拦下来,驾驶证和行驶证被扣,在中国没有地位权利真可怕

I don’t know which leaders are coming for a visit, in the front were People’s Armed Police trucks clearing the way, at the rear there were traffic police, this morning we took a ride around Golmud in big brothers car, it wasn’t easy, we unknowingly passed this fleet, and then the mighty traffic police stopped us, they took our drivers license and permit, the lack of rights and status in China is really terrible.
2012


格尔木火车站都是武警剪票喔

The Golmud Train Station ticket checkers are all People’s Armed Police!
2012


刚进格尔木站,武警,特警和警察,不下30人,特警荷枪实弹,警犬站立旁边。小小格尔木站,阵势好大。

Just arrived at Golmud Station. People’s Armed Police, Special Police, and regular police, no less than 30 of them, the Special Police are heavily armed, and police dogs stand beside them. Little Golmud Station, ready for a huge battle.
2012


格尔木的火车站进站检查和坐飞机有一拼,门口还有荷枪实弹的特警执勤和警犬巡逻,询问了一下特警工作人员,被告知每天都是如此,不禁使我想到去拉萨会不会碰到暴乱,呵呵,如果遇到的话貌似也不错哦,只要不要受伤,哈哈

Golmud Train Station entry inspection and the airport are the same, standing guard at the door are heavily-armed Special Police and there are police dog patrols, I asked a member of the Special Police staff, was told that every day is like this. I can’t help but to wonder whether or not I’ll see riots in Lhasa, haha, if you see them it might be interesting, just don’t get hurt, haha.
2013


YUNNAN

DECHEN

在云南的导游说四川云南交界的甘孜州前短时间人民暴动,到现在还有军队驻扎,但是信息被封锁了。真没听说过这个事

The tour guide in Yunnan said that in Kardze prefecture, where Sichuan and Yunnan meet, there were riots not too long ago, there are still troops stationed there, but the information has been blocked. I really hadn’t heard about this matter.
2012


不是一个赌徒,却在不停的下赌注,赌注是自己。3.14所有生活在藏区的人都知道今天意味着什么。人在香格里拉,不能在你触手可及的地方,可至少离你又近了些。看着满大街的防爆武警,我在想,你呢,你又在干嘛?今天过了,我们就该给出答案了是吗?

I’m not a gambler, but that won’t stop me from placing a bet, a bet with myself. 3/14, everyone who lives in a Tibetan area knows what that means. I’m in Gyalthang, and that’s far away from you, but at least I’m a little closer to you. Looking at the streets full of People’s Armed Police behind explosive-proof barricades, I was thinking, you, what are you doing? After today, should we give an answer?
2012


什么时候再去香格里拉呢。。。怀念阿。当时好像快到当地的什么节了,好多武警阿

When will I return to Gyalthang… Ah, I yearn for it. It was like a local festival was approaching, there were so many People’s Armed Police!
2012


刚好碰到五月赛马节。马场武警警察数量跟游客差不多了,500米的跑道栏杆边是一米配一个的密度。藏区办个活动真不容易啊

Just passed by the May horse-racing festival. The number of People’s Armed Police and police was almost the same as the number of tourists, there was one standing every meter along the racetrack. It really isn’t easy to hold activities in Tibetan areas!
Gyalthang
2012


这几天刚好是香格里拉更名十周年庆典,有赛马比赛,去看了一下,空旷的草原上冷风阵阵,还不时夹着雨,冻得我……并且到处可以看到特警,马场周围全是武警把手,两栖警车都用上了

It happens to be the tenth anniversary of the renaming of Gyalthang [to Shangri-La], there are horse races, I went to take a look, a cold wind was blowing through the open grasslands and there were bands of rain, I was frozen… Special Police can be seen everywhere, the racecourse was surrounded by People’s Armed Police, the police were using amphibious police vehicles.
2012


赛马节看武警
云南省,迪庆藏族自治州,香格里拉县,环湖路

I saw People’s Armed Police at the horse racing festival.
Yunnan Province, Dechen prefecture, Gyalthang town, Huanhu Street.
2012
94 - Weibo appendix


进入藏区了,路边的武警与交警合一的
云南省,迪庆藏族自治州,香格里拉县,康珠大道

I’ve entered the Tibetan area, by the road there are People’s Armed Police and traffic police side by side.
2012
95 - Weibo appendix



德钦给我的感觉就是很乱满街都是警察警车装甲车,而且这里的藏族对我们很不友好

Dechen gives me the impression of a very chaotic place, the streets are full of police and police vehicles and armored vehicles, and the local Tibetans are very unfriendly to us.
2012


香格里拉路上都停装甲车,武警都带冲锋枪!牛逼的地方!

There are armored vehicles parked on the street in Gyalthang, People’s Armed Police with automatic weapons! What a cool fucking place!
2013


进香格里拉尽然要被带枪的中国武警查身份证

China’s People’s Armed Police holding guns checked my ID card when I entered Gyalthang.
2013


GANSU

KANLHO

2011年3月5日是藏历新年,属当地敏感时期,夏河县全县戒备,随处可见武警、装甲车!还可见沿途朝拜的藏民!

March 5th 2011 is the Tibetan New Year, it’s a sensitive time in this area, all of Sangchu county is on alert, there are People’s Armed Police everywhere, armored vehicles! You can also see Tibetans going on pilgrimage.
2011
96 - Weibo appendix


我在甘南时已经感慨过了,住的小宾馆里有两辆摘牌军车的士兵,每一层楼有士兵执勤,好多个县城有装甲车巡逻。顺便说一句,白色那种装甲车看起来很帅。

I’ve already got mixed feelings about Gannan, I’m staying in a small hotel with two trucks worth of soldiers, there are soldiers on duty on each floor, a lot of county towns are patrolled by armored vehicles. By the way, the white armored vehicles look really cool.
2011


夏河 拉卜楞寺门口n多警车,群众表示感到很安全

At the entrance to Labrang monastery there are a bunch of police cars, the masses are expressing their feelings very safely.
2011
97 - Weibo appendix


腰酸背痛了一上午,看到的就是大堆大堆的武警,特警,要感谢那个无名大学生哥哥,拉着我冲到最前面看了班禅一眼,还帮我推开人潮,大好人呐

My back hurt this morning, everything I could see disappeared under piles of People’s Armed Police and special police, I want to thank that nameless university student brother, he pulled me to the front of the crowd to get a glimpse of the Panchen Lama, also helped force the crowd open, excellent guide.
2011
98 - Weibo appendix


拉卜楞寺今天正遇十一世班禅驾临,寺庙做法式,没有看到民众,喇嘛们临街迎接和朝拜的壮观景象,稀稀拉拉的人群,最多的是武警,特警和公安。纯粹的宗教信仰在被馋食

At Labrang monastery today there’s an event for the arrival of the Panchen Lama, the temple is having a Buddhist ceremony, I haven’t seen any crowds, lamas on the street form a spectacle of greeting and worship, but the crowd is sparse, mostly made up of People’s Armed Police, Special Police, and Public Security. Pure religious beliefs and gluttonous eaters.
2011


现在站在拉卜楞寺对面,深夜的夏河藏族自治州,黑黢黢除了群山啥都看不到,由于特殊原因警车一趟一趟巡逻,让人又爱又怕的地方啊

Right now I’m standing across from Labrang, late night in Sangchu, it’s pitch black and the only thing I can see are the mountains, due to particular reasons there are police vehicles on patrol, making people both love and fear this place!
2011


我来到了一个全部土路,人迹罕至的地方玛曲。全县就一家旅店。街上人好少啊。晚上都不敢出门,街上全是武警和警察。不过一路上特漂亮。

I came upon a dirt road, leading to Machu, an inaccessible place. There’s only one hotel in the entire county. Very few people on the streets! I’m afraid to go out at night, the streets are full of People’s Armed Police and regular police. But it’s very pretty along the way.
2012


甘南的互联网的确被屏蔽了。好郁闷。

Internet service in Kanlho prefecture has definitely been blocked. Really depressed.
2012


这几天在甘南藏族自治州碌曲县郎木寺镇,由于特殊原因这里屏蔽了手机信号,无法上网。下午刚刚回到州政府所在地合作市才勉强可以,冬末的甘南寒冷严酷、山穷水尽、寸草不生、白雪皑皑。今年夏天还会来这里,到时候定是水草丰美、漫山青绿、牛羊成群!

Been in Taktsang Lhamo town of Luchu county in Kanlho for the last few days, due to special circumstances the cellular network has been blocked, no way to get online. This afternoon I reluctantly returned to the prefectural capital, Tsoe city, in late winter Kanlho is cold and grim, barren mountains and rivers, covered in snow. But this year summer will surely come, at that time this place will be lush, hills overflowing with green, flocks of cattle and sheep!
2012


原本以为平静的县城 在开过几辆装甲车和大批全副武装的武警后 哥兴奋了~偷拍了一张

At first I thought this was a peaceful county, but after several armored vehicles and a large number of armed People’s Armed Police passed, it excited me, I stealthily took this picture.
2012
99 - Weibo appendix


于穷山恶水中辗转至碌曲,大西北的贫瘠一览无余,搭上素不相识的藏族朋友的车夜奔到郎木寺,跟一百多个武警住在同一个旅馆,平安,高原反应在我这里目前表现为嗜睡,晚安

I’ve gone through all these badlands, I eventually arrived in Luchu, with sweeping views of northwest China’s barren lands, riding the car of a Tibetan whom I just befriended to Taktsang Lhamo, now I’m staying in a hotel with more than 100 People’s Armed Police, peaceful, altitude sickness has made me tired, good night.
2012


D12 郎木寺—碌曲 89KM 不知道什么原因甘肃甘南地区手机上网全着屏蔽,所以这几天一直没上网。郎木寺,一个很有人情味的地方,我相信有机会还会再去然后狠狠的呆上一两个月。在那里我看到了很多朝圣的藏民,他们的行为令我无时无刻不在感动着。

Day 12, 89 kilometers from Taktsang Lhamo to Luchu. I don’t know why the internet is blocked in Kanlho prefecture, Gansu, so I’ve been unable to get online for the last few days. Taktsang Lhamo is a place full of human kindness, I believe if I had the chance I could stay there for another month or two. I saw a lot of Tibetans on pilgrimage there, I was constantly touched by their ways.
2012


来夏河真的不能一个人来,可怕,这家酒店安全点,外面都是武警!

You really can’t come to Sangchu by yourself, it’s frightening. This hotel is pretty safe, but outside there are People’s Armed Police!
2012


安多大法会成了藏民车友会,又见武警,八十公里车龙,五里方圆帐篷,今晚只能草原里借宿了

The Great Amdo Buddhist Festival has become a friendly Tibetan festival, I saw People’s Armed Police again, and a line of cars 80 kilometers long, and a line of tents five kilometers long, tonight the only place to stay is on the grassland.
2012


今天赶上了藏族的“香浪节”,甘南州府合作全是从各地盛装赶来的藏民,交通管制的武警看过我们外地车牌后才放行。

Today the Tibetan “Xianglang Festival” has arrived, in Tsoe, the capital of Kanlho prefecture, there are Tibetans wearing traditional clothing from all over the place, after the People’s Armed Police who are handling traffic control saw our out-of-town license plate they let us go.
2012


这次来竟然在夏河的大街上看到巡逻的警察了,觉得挺悲哀的。

This time I’m seeing police patrolling the main street in Sangchu, I feel very sad.
2012


甘肃。进入甘南州,看到每个重_要路口,警察,警车,武警,防弹衣_,盾牌,拒马。如临大敌,让-人搞不懂。

Gansu. Entering Kanlho prefecture, you can see every intersection as police, police vehicles, People’s Armed Police, body armor, shields, barricades. It’s as if they’re facing a dangerous enemy, which people don’t understand.
2012


昨天直奔拉卜楞寺,网络屏蔽了。要闹事。

Yesterday I went straight to Labrang monastery, the internet is blocked. Want to make some trouble.
2012


终于手机可以上网了!好激动!在甘南夏河几天都没网!而且武警超级多!

My phone can finally access the internet! I’m so excited! I couldn’t access the internet at all in Sangchu, Kanlho, over the last few days. And there were so so many People’s Armed Police!
2012


行进至夏河境内,手机信号被屏蔽,过境查身份证,时局动荡,暴徒混乱。因为没有身份证只能停了脚步,有点失落遗憾,回来的路上边喝酒边唱歌,爽死了。总行程100多公里。今天只能休整了。晚安了。

Traveling in the Sangchu region, cell phone service has been blocked, they check your ID as you enter the area, this is a turbulent political situation, rioters created chaos. If you don’t have an ID card they’ll stop you right away, got a little bit lost, on the way back we were drinking and singing, relaxing to the max. All in all we traveled about 100 km. Today we just recuperated. Good night.
2012


坑爹的合作市,屏蔽了所有网络,终于到境了,到达若尔盖

Goddamn Tsoe, all internet access is blocked, finally reached the border, arrived in Zoige.
2012


路过的一个甘肃甘南州的县城,路居然还是土路。同行有一个外国博士,于是遇到各种盘查和监视,今早警车尾随我们出县城,真的第一次受到这待遇啊。。。。

Passed through a county town in Kanlho prefecture, Gansu. Surprisingly, it still has a dirt road. My fellow traveler has a PhD from a foreign university, and so we were interrogated and watched. Today a police car trailed us as we left the town, this is really the first time I’ve ever been treated like this.
2012


今天有正月法会中一项重要活动-晒佛,拉卜楞如临大敌。全县GPRS信号被切断,手机无法上网。武警全副武装,随处可见,战略要地还有百人左右的武警方阵和装甲车。这让我第一次感觉到自己随时会有绳命危险

Today there’s an important Buddhist festival- the Sunning of the Buddha, Labrang is on high alert. GPS has been cut off across the entire county, phones can’t access the internet. People’s Armed Police are armed to the teeth, everywhere you can see them, in strategic locations there will be a phalanx of about a hundred People’s Armed Police and armored vehicles. This is the first time I’ve ever felt such danger in my life.
2013


用手机拍了些照片想发到微博上可惜的是无网络.好好一个事让它们搞的实在是没法说!今天下午到了碌曲郎木寺还好有网但还是很压抑,武装警察你们离净地那么近不该呵!

Took some pictures with my phone that I want to upload, it’s a pity there’s no internet here. It’s a very good thing that they messed up! This afternoon I arrived in Taktsang Lhamo town, Luchu county, there’s internet again but still a lot of repression, you armed police shouldn’t be so close to the pure land!
2013


终于到了可以上网的地方了,夏河附近的网络是被屏蔽了的,武警防守严密。这个不予置评,我说的多少会有所偏颇。只是觉得国家政策对这些地区的少数民族已经够好了,只要他们不闹事而已。但是,如果不闹事,不争取,不迫使国家机器做出一些妥协,谁又能确定他们今天得到的东西,明天会不会被剥夺呢?!

Finally reached a place where I can access the internet, the internet is blocked in the area around Sangchu, People’s Armed Police are mounting a tight defense. I have no comment on this, whatever I say might be biased. It’s just that I think the national policy towards these minority areas is good enough, just trying to make sure they don’t make any trouble. But if you don’t make any trouble, don’t fight, don’t force the state apparatus to make some compromises, who can be sure that the things they have today won’t be taken away tomorrow?!
2013


昨天发现 一大群荷枪实弹的武警和我住一个酒店
甘肃省,甘南藏族自治州,卓尼县,岷麻公路

Yesterday I discovered that a large group of heavily-armed People’s Armed Police are staying in the same hotel with me.
Gansu Province, Kanlho Prefecture, Chone County
2013


TIBET (Unspecified Location)


青藏公路上的装甲车

Armored vehicles on the Qinghai-Tibet highway.
2011
100 - Weibo appendix


阿坝藏族自治区,横垮四川,青海,甘肃,西藏,因独特地理环境和宗教信仰,政治问题非常敏感,沿途重重关卡,公安,武警,装甲车拿着盾牌的战士,仿佛有种到了中东地区错觉..所有的无线网络,短信都处于屏蔽状态,可惜不能拍照上不了武警战士们的英勇雄风..(ps有同伴拍照,被拿着枪指着删除

Ngaba Tibetan Autonomous Region, across Sichuan, Qinghai, Gansu, the Tibet Autonomous Region, because of the unique natural environment and religious beliefs, the political situation is very sensitive, on the way there are all sorts of obstacles, Public Security, People’s Armed Police, armored vehicles and soldiers holding combat shields, it gives you the impression that you’ve arrived in the Middle East, there’s no wireless internet and text messages are blocked, sadly you can’t take any pictures of the heroically glorious People’s Armed Police soldiers… (PS a companion took pictures, but he was forced to delete them at gunpoint)
2011


街头小拍~~~西藏的街头最常见的就是特警武警~~~这是为什么呢?

A quick shot taken on the street ~~~ The most common sight on the streets of Tibet are Special Police and People’s Armed Police ~~~ Why is this?
2011
101 - Weibo appendix


武警部队连续4天进驻藏区,看来事态严重了。

People’s Armed Police forces have entered the Tibetan area four days in a row, it seems the situation must be quite serious.
2012
102 - Weibo appendix


在这里,基本没有汉人。我总是被围观。明天开始是一年一度的藏传佛教大法会,满街都是解放军武装部队和装甲车。手机网络信号也被切断,偶尔能蹭wifi.

Here, there basically aren’t any Chinese people. I was always being stared at. Tomorrow the annual Tibetan Buddhist dharma festival will begin, the streets are full of People’s Liberation Army armed forces and armored vehicles. Cell phone networks are cut off, occasionally I can get some wifi access.
2012


第一次亲身感受到藏区的危险,一个小村庄竟然到处是背抢的特警,而且还有坦克在巡逻……

This is the first time I’ve felt endangered in the Tibetan area, a small village was suddenly full of Special Police with guns, and there are tanks on patrol…
2012


妈啊,这也忒刺激了!进入藏区武警扛着枪就上车检查来了,我还傻不愣登举着手机录像呢,结果勒令删掉视频,检查手机检查身份证。被带下车登记护照。还好得知我们是好人以后,扛不扛枪的武警态度都很友好。

Oh gosh, this is exciting! Entering the Tibetan area our vehicles were inspected by People’s Armed Police carrying guns, I was also foolish and bewildered enough to take a cell phone video, they ordered me to delete it, inspecting phones and ID cards. They made us get out of the car to record our passports. Luckily after they realized we are good people, with or without guns the People’s Armed Police have a very friendly attitude.
2012


驾车的朋友看过来:藏区有N多检查站,武警,军人,警察,土八路,武警和军人只设站不检查,警察和土八路沿途检查,需出示身份证,驾照和行车证,登记以后给一张路条,记录目前的时间和到达下一站所需的时间,如果提前到达即视为超速行驶,罚款500。不过可能是高原缺氧天气寒冷,他们并不特别认真。

A friend driving a car noticed: Tibetan areas have so many inspection stations, People’s Armed Police, soldiers, policemen, the authorities, People’s Armed Police and soldiers have checkpoints, police and army check you along the way, you’re required to produce your ID card, drivers license, and vehicle registration. At the stop they’ll register you, and time how long it takes for you to reach the next stop, if you get there early by speeding they’ll fine you 500 yuan. However, perhaps because of the cold weather and hypoxia on the high plateau, they aren’t particularly serious.
2012


开上来一排武警的车,十几辆,装甲车都有,据说藏区不安耽啊

Passed a row of People’s Armed Police vehicles, a dozen, all armored, it is said that the Tibetan areas are restless.
2012
103 - Weibo appendix


途中几百辆藏区军车,人民的军队振憾中

Hundreds of military vehicles on the way to the Tibetan area, the People’s Army giving a shock.
2012
104 - Weibo appendix


想说说我对于西藏,对于藏族的态度。藏族究竟是否像我以前在网络上了解的,那般淳朴?来西藏这么久,对于藏族的态度,其实是敬而远之。淳朴者或有之,但请相信,藏族也是人。我有时候看看那些在街头巡逻的武警,暗想:那些藏族看到这些武警,是否会产生被统治的感觉,而不是主人的自豪感?

I would like to this say with respect to Tibet, with respect towards Tibetan attitudes. Are Tibetans really as simple as I used to understand them to be, through the internet? Being in Tibet for this long, regarding Tibetan attitudes, I’m really still kept at arm’s length. Whether or not they’re simple, I still believe, Tibetans are people. Sometimes I look at the People’s Armed Police patrolling the streets, and think: When those Tibetans see these People’s Armed Police, does it give them the feeling of being dominated, rather than a master’s sense of pride?
2012


武警又开始检查证件。乡,县,市,级级检查,进也查出也查。就一条街的距离都要查两次。这是我第一次感觉汉族人的优待,一般看到汉族就直接放行,别的民族连你家祖宗都要问出来,特别是藏族,如果是康巴藏族那你会更加麻烦。

People’s Armed Police have begun checking ID cards again. Township, county, city, at every level they check, they check when you enter and when you leave. So on one stretch of road you’ll be inspected twice. This is the first time I’ve ever felt the privilege of being Chinese, generally Chinese people are let out right away, but other ethnicities need to explain their background and their families, especially Tibetans, and if you’re a Tibetan from Kham you’ll be in even more trouble.
2012


从藏区出来还有荷枪实弹的武警查身份证,拍了相片被他发现,被要求当场删掉了。

While on my way out of the Tibetan areas I passed so many People’s Armed Police with guns checking people’s ID cards, they noticed when I took a picture of them, I was ordered to delete them on the spot.
2012


川藏路上装甲车队。。。。旁边是尼阳河

A squad of armored vehicles on the Sichuan-Tibet highway… next to the Nyang river.
2012
105 - Weibo appendix


藏区这边果然是武力管制啊……随处可见背枪的武警

Tibetan areas around here really are controlled by force! You can see police with guns strapped to their backs everywhere.
2012


藏区的武警是老大、路是他们开的一样,他们一出动我们些就要靠边站咯
四川省
In Tibetan areas the People’s Armed Police are the boss, it’s as if the road is for them, they forced us aside.
2013

106 - Weibo appendix


看到,十几辆部队大卡车和几车武警和我们逆行进藏区,看来我们昨天被查身份证还真是有什么事发生了!

Look, a dozen trucks full of troops and several cars of People’s Armed Police passed us in the opposite direction, heading into the Tibetan area, it looks like something really happened when they were checking our ID cards yesterday!
2013


西藏之旅关键词:海拔,高原反应,吸氧,牦牛。武警

Keywords from my trip to Tibet: Altitude, altitude sickness, oxygen, yaks. People’s Armed Police.
2013